纽约时装周 2009春夏男裝－Y-3

雖然慶祝60周年的是Adidas品牌，但不難想像Y-3在這季春夏勢必要作出一些變化。當然不是說三線跑道飾邊，與亮眼橘色將會就此消失，在巴黎走秀的Yohji Yamamoto給這季的Y-3就是融合美式與法式風格的「隨性的優雅」態度，當然，這個史上最強crossover合作計畫的初衷是運動時尚化。儘管運動服從來沒有出現在這個系列裡，但這些時裝在黑或橘紗的底下，仍舊是舒適涼爽的科技材質。上半身被拉長的時裝輪廓線也相當有別於其他品牌強調「高腰再高腰」的帝政風格。

秀場舞台上只有螢光燈管的裝飾，提醒著我們，這個設計系列要呈現的是亮眼的時髦，而不是前衛藝術的變形時尚。人們在紐約時裝週裡總想看到激進的叛逆，但Y-3卻大氣的連貫延續它的「極簡單品、自由混搭」路線，無論是對90年代的懷舊，或是適時的帶入時下流行的元素，像是海軍橫紋、波希米亞鴨舌帽、與五片式剪裁的小外套，在很多城市的X區都似曾相識是嗎？我們已經可以預估這兩天在蘇活區新開的Y-3旗艦店，會湧進怎樣的一批人了。

September 7, 2008

Not the likeliest place in the world you'd expect to spot the influence of Thom Browne, but the spirit of New York's arch provocateur manifested itself in the filmy gown sported by Jamie Strachan toward the end of the Y-3 show. Quite what this had to do with the kind of sweats-and-sneakers-with-a-twist shtick that has boosted Y-3 into the sportswear stratosphere was unclear. And that lack of clarity intensified seconds later when Reid Prebenda appeared as the creepy mom from Psycho—with a knapsack and flat cap to further confuse the issue. It was an obvious showpiece, but it served its purpose in that it compelled you to step back and reexamine what had come before. The orange raincoat, Flavor Flav's shorts hanging off suspenders, the boxing robes, the Breton-striped hoodies…they all added up to a surprisingly and appealingly off-kilter take on athleticwear.

— Tim Blanks

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