纽约时装周 2009春夏男裝－Tim Hamilton

去年夏天我們說「無論你上半身穿T恤還是西裝，下半身都搭短褲就對了。」今年夏天，設計師Tim Hamilton建議你「無論你下半身穿短褲還是煙管長褲，都搭長統靴就對了！」長統靴的帥勁讓男孩過了秋冬仍捨不得收進鞋櫃。然而配件只是一個看點，從Black Tie和雞尾酒禮服、緹花織紋的黑色西裝，到百褶襟飾的襯衫、到紐約菁英指定款的橫紋針織衫都能看的出「正裝風潮」的端倪，不過，設計師Tim Hamilton似乎在捍衛美式休閒態度。且看所有模特兒的下半身，用洗衣機洗到皺褶的長褲，寬鬆棉褲，和向上翻捲褲款的不羈穿著，都呈現了「正式VS.隨性」的衝突與辨證。

但平心而論，衝突混搭並不是最新的辭彙，也不是時裝的正統。所以當設計師要用矛盾感來當作一個系列的主題時，最好能夠搭配提出精采亮眼的單品。畢竟「搭配」在如今是一種街頭至上、人人都可我說了算的態度展現，設計師在伸展台上應該示範優異的剪裁、輪廓或顏色與創意。雖不能說窄版西裝就是Kris Van Assche的專利，但上個春夏Yves Saint Laurent黑色尼龍絲光感的長風衣給人印象太深刻，導致Tim Hamilton這個男裝系列的20多個look，都令人頗有種時光倒流之感。

September 7, 2008

"Duality is the name of the game," said the show notes, which cued the spirit of decadent ambiguity that underpinned Tim Hamilton's latest presentation. There was a winning loucheness in silky scoopneck tees and a glazed linen artist's cape (that's what Hamilton called it, though I was rather liking "opera coat"). The angular-featured pretty boys, with their slicked-back hair, looked like David Bowie in Just a Gigolo (turf that Robert Geller covered earlier in the week), and the clothes had the Weimar vibe to match, with long ribbed knit shorts reminiscent of the athleticwear sported by health-and-efficiency adolescents in the twenties and thirties. When Hamilton stitched mock shirttails on ribbed leggings and tux bibs on shirts, it simply compounded the vintage effect.

Those same show notes also quoted artist Frank Stella: “What you see is what you see." Hmm. Perhaps insufficiently evocative for a collection that seemed to be referencing designer's designer Carol Christian Poell (Hamilton enlisted Poell's bootmaker in Vienna for his spectacular footwear, and he whitewashed a leather jacket for a strange but seductive Poell-like effect). A weekend’s worth of men's shows in New York has a cumulative effect—so many individual points of view building a composite of striking creativity. Hamilton benefited from the accumulation—but he added plenty to it, too.

— Tim Blanks

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