纽约时装周 2009春夏男裝－Thom Browne

以「哈比人西裝（比身材整個小兩尺碼的衝突穿著）」用縮水西裝加上高腰無皺褶長褲的小六生穿著（男孩快速發育的時候衣服總是趕不上變化）打響21世紀New Look名號的Thom Browne，可說是現在喊水會結凍的美國最大咖。他的忙碌程度直追時上大帝，除了自己的時裝系列，還有幫Harry Winston設計男性鑽飾，幫美國總統都愛穿的Brooks Brothers設計Black Fleece男女裝配飾系列，現在似乎又多了項任務「幫美國網球公開賽設計衣服」，且看本季秀場就立刻登身幻化成為網球場。

整個系列可說精采十足：白色帶出了夏日清爽的氣息，長袍、西裝和襯衫，服裝上網球拍的圖案，說明了這個男人是某個貴族俱樂部的成員。而有別於其他華爾街菁英，這個男人是從祖父那輩他的家族就已經相當顯赫，具有非凡的品味。從他身上不時出現搭配的草履蟲圖案西裝、蘇格蘭皇室格紋高地男裙、和略帶金屬絲光質感的泰式沙龍…這些豐富的元素，就能確定在這季「衝突混搭」仍是Thom Browne持續推薦給男人的時尚王道。畢竟這些身價非凡的俱樂部男孩穿什麼，都會是別人爭相模仿的主流！

September 9, 2008

Astronauts used to head into space with vials of fragrance that would keep Earth close. Freshly cut grass was apparently the most popular. Thom Browne's venue reeked of it. The most comforting scent on the planet paired with the most deliberately discomforting men's collection? No, I won't go there. This time around, Thom actually reined in most of his more outré tendencies in favor of a relatively crisp, clean dissertation on American sportswear. And he did mean sports, as in Flushing Meadows. Terry headbands and armbands, embroidered criss-crossed racquets as a recurring motif, white polo shirts and shorts—bits and pieces to gladden a ball boy's heart were complemented by patrician seersuckers and paisleys, but as usual the hiked-high schoolboy proportions made you think that the Browne man's mom still buys his clothes for him—and that Norman Bates-ian notion flowered in the parade of shorts, long socks, and Church's-for-Thom shoes.

And suddenly, the outré effortlessly reasserted itself: The checkerboard train on a racquet-embroidered coat, the gangsta-style low-slung shorts, the endlessly reiterated waders, and—the coup de grâce—the giant tutu that closed the show. They all whiffed of Thom's ongoing Barnum and Bailey assault on masculine convention. Browne's bigger picture is hovering into view. Those low-slung shorts, for instance. You could say they offered a new take on his continuing fascination with male powerlessness: a man caught with his pants down.

— Tim Blanks

[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]  ... 下一页  >>