纽约时装周 2009春夏男裝－Shipley & Halmos

儘管本集團的惡魔小姐多麼用力提攜紐約的時尚地位，有小報說她曾多次以「美元貶值」為主由施壓米蘭時裝周縮短行程（對巴黎也是，不過巴黎時裝工業似乎並沒有買單）來讓時尚焦點停留在紐約時裝週（結果現在歐元也開始疲軟）。不知是否因為米蘭剪裁最終仍是男裝的重鎮，看得出許多紐約設計師在提交創意的同時，基本功學的仍然是義大利式的那套優雅和一私不茍，與經典楦頭皮鞋、帶上墨鏡裝酷耍帥…說的也包括紐約新面孔的雙人組設計師Sam Shipley和Jeff Halmos，翻版的D&G？絕對是開玩笑的。

扶桑花和棕櫚的南義熱情在這幾年是比較少了，所以取經的仍舊是義大利立裁那套修飾身材的好功夫。從某個有趣的觀點來說，這個時裝系列應該就是設計師設計給自己這季的衣櫥裡，從居家、上班工作、打球休閒、週末度假與夜店派對的各套裝束，全都精緻合身，合誰的身？像這對設計師那樣消瘦俐落的人。值得一提的是，這個秀的開始是一面牆上的許多油畫，頗有向紐約現在一窩風靡前衛藝術浪潮靠攏致敬的心態。而這個秀的音樂更是設計師Sam Shipley自己操盤錄製，如此處處講究細節，也是某種程度上的潛「義式」完美主義吧。

September 5, 2008

Sam Shipley and Jeff Halmos started with a context for their clothes: a room with oil paintings on the wall. That was the sense of confident class they wanted to convey. But, as Shipley acknowledged, that was some challenge. If you’re going to focus on fundamentals like cut and cloth, you want to be sure you can get them right. And these are still early days for Shipley & Halmos. Their tailoring is done in the East, so the best thing that, say, a suit in a bird’s-eye check had going for it may have been price. That also means that the standouts in this collection were the more idiosyncratic items: one shirt in a bright plaid, another in a Liberty print, a yellow coat, a top in cashmere netting. In some funny way, they seemed much closer to the designers’ own personalities, best exemplified by the soundtrack for the show that Shipley himself recorded, a stomping combo of T. Rex beats and keening vocals.

— Tim Blanks

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