纽约时装周 2009春夏男裝－Robert Geller

看來這股正裝潮流一時間方興未艾，連再叛逆的幾個紐約新銳都難逃這股優雅浪潮，我們可以說2009春夏的男人，和以往一樣喜歡旅遊和運動，但可能要多點時間工作和參加派對，也就是說「白天忙碌上班，晚上用力玩樂」的活力男人是現在最優勢的物種。我們不僅要問，難道世紀末曾流行「白天是行業領域裡的布爾喬亞菁英、晚上可能混在Bar裡演奏或在派對中打碟的波西米亞」的那種雙面吃香Bobo族要回來了嗎？答案很可能是的，從前季秋冬的波西米亞大軍攻陷許多時裝大廠的伸展台這件事就能看的出來。

不過有別於以往的都會布波族，Robert Geller說他這季靈感是來自於東歐的男孩（拜託現在那個設計師不是？畢竟你們用了那麼多東歐名模…），在紐約這個城市裡生存的法則。儘管我們滿心相信這些男孩生存的法則是他們俊美的臉蛋與身材，但衣服上的確就是要更加dressed up，就算多麼想穿件T恤、牛仔褲就出門，也要加件西裝外套變身smart casual。整個系列以銀灰、藍與黑為主基調，可說是「入門款」的男裝單品。輪廓剪裁上也更趨纖瘦，有許多人認為Robert Geller的男裝少了陽剛氣，但畢竟衣服只要好看才最重要！

September 5, 2008

Robert Geller thrives on dislocation: shows that start late, darkly atmospheric settings (though Issei Suma’s Constructivist rope sculpture couldn’t match Fall’s crepuscular synagogue on the Lower East Side)…and exquisitely doom-laden soundtracks. Death in June’s marriage of acoustic guitar and leaden electronics was an appropriate complement to the concept Geller claimed as his inspiration this season: men in Eastern Europe, hanging tough to survive, finding it hard to show their sensitive side. Whoa! It was scarcely the boys of contemporary Bucharest or Budapest who came through in his collection. Instead, Geller offered up a vision that could have been extracted from a dark Transylvanian romance (okay, that’s still Eastern Europe, but not as we know it, Jim). Limpid-eyed, corpse-hued models with slicked-back hair—lost boys, actually—wore clothes with a formality that smacked of the night: shawl-collared jackets, tuxedo vests, pants with piped pockets, dark, silky things. The designer clearly has a thing for Tsarist militarist—here, there was a tasty leather jacket he called “Cossack.” He insisted that the stripes that dominated the collection were inspired by gypsies, but they also reminded one of prison uniforms. And after all, weren’t gypsies imprisoned en masse, which unfortunately cycled round to the accusations of Nazism once leveled at Death in June? That’s how easy it is to trip yourself up in the glass bubble of fashion. More advisable to latch onto the notion that Geller might actually have been making a prescient comment on the prison that masculinity can become for men ensnared by their gender. Oh, and the clothes were actually really beautiful.

— Tim Blanks

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