纽约时装周 2009春夏男裝－DKNY

為了盛大慶祝DKNY品牌成立的20周年紀念，Donna Karan特地把慣常發表時裝的秀場從Stephan Weiss Studio搬到Bryant Park。現場還準備了由Chandon為DKNY特別訂製20年熟成的氣泡酒別具用心。時裝發表以一段小影片開始，你一定以為是Karan歷年的作品集錦吧？並不是的，這段影片彷彿是封寫給紐約這個城市的情書。蒙太奇式的跳躍剪接，帝國大廈、擁擠的計程車、地鐵的標誌，一幕幕景象都陳述著，街頭就是時尚最華麗的舞台。

大街楚楚。如同芭芭拉史翠珊唱的：人是需要人的人。或許在時尚界，衣服，也是需要衣服來陪伴的衣服。對層次混搭向來相當有技巧的DKNY，本季並沒有省略任何可供選配的單品與顏色，造成本季的DKNY風格難以定義。我們依舊記得在美國影集《醜女貝蒂》裡面那句賤嘴名言：「你以為你是Donna Karan每死3季總又會有一兩季復活嗎？」嗯，在她慶祝20周年的此刻，我們就姑且說她「維持了自我的風格，創造了年輕的經典」好了

September 7, 2008

DKNY’s 20th anniversary should ideally offer a prime opportunity to reflect on the evolution of men's style in the city the label celebrates, but it's actually been a pretty random journey—a fact that was underscored by the front-row presence of Esther Cañadas and Mark Vanderloo. They were once the gorgeous faces of the label, and even back in the day the duo were much more sophisticated than the callow youngsters who wore the clothes on today's catwalk. Not that long ago, Donna herself was talking about turning young guys onto ties and a slightly more formal approach to dressing, but these DKNY men seem to have relapsed—they were virtually tieless and resolutely low-key.

While many of the girls on today's catwalk sported big birthday bows, the celebration on the men's front consisted mostly of suits and sneakers. The fashion quotient of the collection was all about layering: a V-neck over a tee and under a navy suit, or a cotton coat over a stone-colored cardigan over a V-neck tee. Casual and easy, it was actually the way most men might care to dress in their downtime, which has always been the canny core of DKNY's menswear. After 20 years, not much has changed.

— Tim Blanks

[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] 下一页