纽约时装周 2009春夏男裝－Duckie Brown

試問時尚大帝卡爾拉格斐曾經為了減重做出多少努力，那麼紐約當紅的雙人組設計師Steven Cox和Daniel Silver就有多麼熱切的想將健身這股熱潮推銷給他們的信徒。請注意：非一般運動風格。無論在Duckie Brown的秀上或台下，你都將用一股決心和毅力來修「專業塑型」這門學分。從設計師招牌的剪裁風格其實就可看出端倪：闊綽臂膀肩線餘裕的上衣，是為了容納結實的二頭肌。及膝五分褲長為主流的腳踏車騎士造型，搭配長筒棉襪，源於蘇格蘭的高地靈感，運用在都會中更顯自在。

或者我們可以說，Duckie Brown想要呈現的是一種『信差』的形象，這個脫胎自希臘神話中的角色，他的態度是俐落有效率的，他的裝束簡單卻正式，簡單是為了減去不必要的重量和裝飾，好讓活動更自在。而正式則代表著對傳遞訊息的主人與接受者的重視。雖然這個系列我們看到除了少數的幾何拼接元素，基本上都是大塊的灰色剪裁，但某些細節像是蕨葉圖案刺繡，竟也需要400個小時的人工，可謂Duckie Brown重新演繹了運動正裝化的低調奢華。

September 5, 2008

Just ask Karl Lagerfeld how much of an incentive for fashion creativity weight loss can be. With their latest collection, Steven Cox and Daniel Silver celebrated the way in which diet and exercise reduced their off-runway profile for Spring 2009. It's a typical fashion paradox that shrinkage breeds expansion, and early retailer response suggests it's already their most successful collection to date. Maybe the world is finally turning Duckie, because it's not like the collection compromised on the label's signatures: the nutzoid proportions, the over-the-top embroidery, the mash-up of salon and street.

Cox and Silver took that most urban of organisms—the bike messenger—as their starting point, hence the baggy shorts over black compression tights that were key to the collection. The stretch didn’t stop at leggings. During the hours that Cox logged at the pool in his pursuit of the body beautiful, he said he was captivated by swimmers in the one-piece suits that Michael Phelps has since made iconic. So, underpinning Duckie's entire Spring collection were stretchy tops, bottoms, hoods, and little glovelets. The eccentricity of such a second-skin notion was compounded by a wide silhouette—echoes of David Byrne's Big Suit. Boxily cut jackets were matched with trousers that were cut on the circle, or shorts that fell to below the knee. There was something almost futuristic about the idea of an athletic body-consciousness wrapped in voluminous tailoring—the best of both worlds, in a way. And even if the collection as a whole didn't have the exquisite focus of last season, it could boast a showpiece (in the sweatshirt where fern embroidery took a prodigious 400 man hours) to rank with Duckie's most glamorous.

— Tim Blanks

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