纽约时装周 2009春夏男裝－John Bartlett

提起John Bartlett這個設計師的名字，通常人們第一個想到的就是「穿上筆挺制服」的性感男人。在2009春夏這季，這個男人的個性愈來愈鮮明，他是個懷抱著遠大理想、略帶叛逆面容的男人，用設計師的話說，是「混合三島由紀夫與狂人」的綜合形象。不得不佩服設計師的敏銳思維，如同向來總是被John Bartlett設定為極短髮造型的男模特兒，在本季透過隱喻的小說家、電影演員與右翼政治狂熱份子這種複雜形象得到了更有深度的俐落與深沉。

夾克或針織衫搭配襯衫的學院搭配法還是風格的主線，西服上裝的剪裁逐漸往義大利路線靠攏。在色彩方面，白色、水藍色、灰色充滿海洋氣息的色調，傳來了島國的夏日氣息，海軍橫紋與暗喻地圖經緯的格紋的圖案，取代了沙灘與棕櫚的撩人性感。畢竟在John Bartlett的世界，這個男人儘管像Mishima那樣是個生性喜好熱鬧，三教九流之輩無不結交，好美酒，嗜佳餚，高朋滿座的真性情男人，也會是海軍軍官而不是浪跡天涯的漁夫。

September 4, 2008

"Mishima meets Mad Men" was John Bartlett's distillation of the spirit of his new collection, his first under the aegis of Liz Claiborne. And mad—if not entirely explicable—contrasts are the essence of the designer's ethos. (You could say his whole career has been a face-off between Forrest Gump and Fire Island.) Still, Bartlett's recent collections have felt like the stuffing's been knocked out of them, so it was uplifting to see what amounted to a return to the form he displayed more than a decade ago. In a tightly edited 20 looks, he offered one of his signature meditations on masculinity (Mishima? He was a different breed of Mad Man). Bartlett loves butch, which meant the short sleeves on his shirts clung to the models' bulging biceps. Torsos were defined by the seams of trim cabana shirts. The military influence that is key for Bartlett was sublimated in abstracted appliqués or stripes that suggested insignias on the sleeve of a polo.

But, as much as he has always loved a man in uniform, Bartlett will usually inject a jolt of provocative ambiguity. Here, it arrived in the form of a voile djellaba, or a loosely woven black knit hoodie that also had a North African feel to it. If Bartlett's boxily proportioned suits might have looked familiar to those Mad Men, their louche classmates—who headed off overseas to smoke kef and chase Moroccan boys around Tangiers—would surely have found comfort in the designer's leisurewear.

— Tim Blanks

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