纽约时装周 2009春夏男裝－Michael Bastian

「你也覺得這季的Michael Bastian男裝大有Dsquared的影子嗎？」以上這句純屬個人意見，接著我們來聽聽設計師自己怎麼說。在最新出刊九月號的《Details》雜誌中，採訪了John Varvatos、Thom Browne和Michael Bastian這三個目前紐約當紅的男裝設計師，讓他們來談談什麼是美式風格（其實我覺得作者根本是想要問「美式」算不算一種風格？）然後Michael Bastian的看法是：「你去看義大利的男人，從頭髮、西裝、襯衫、領帶、皮帶、褲子、鞋子，甚至連襪子的搭配，都超級完美。但美式風格的男人可以同樣性感，只是從不刻意搭配，我們就是相當隨性。」

同樣是西上裝搭配短褲，同樣是緊身上衣搭配泳褲，同樣是墨鏡、夾克配件沙灘褲，Dsquared男人就像是要去廣告片廠拍照，而Michael Bastian的男人則「真的」像是要去海邊衝浪。雖然多了真實生活的樣貌，卻少了衝突混搭的樂趣。本季Michael Bastian提供春夏男裝的，除了蕃茄紅、軍綠色、鮮黃色與海軍藍這些明亮的夏日色彩。應該就是把美國男人的率性與不羈再度召喚回正裝伸展台。

September 8, 2008

Once, a trawl through a Michael Bastian collection would take an eon—there was so much to consider. His first show provided an interesting opportunity to see the designer's own distillation of those multiple options. Actually, it wasn't really a show, more a tight edit of 25 looks based around Bastian's latest American archetype. He had in mind Sam Elliott and Parker Stevenson from a 1976 movie called The Lifeguard (male hotties from the seventies being something of a specialty). That translated to plenty of the sporty shorts (bathing suits, even—Bastian said he sells a lot of them) you'd associate with guys like that. At the other end of the spectrum, Bastian offered his signature freewheeling take on eveningwear: shawl-collared pink jacket, blue tux shirt, pale gray pinstriped pants. And in between, standouts included a zippered Fair Isle cardigan, a suede safari jacket, and another jacket in a crisp white seersucker paired with pink cutoffs. That's the kind of easy casual/formal combo at which Bastian excels (the kind that may see him filling Ralph Lauren's shoes somewhere down the line). Still, one wondered whether the edit around his elected theme was perhaps a little too tight to fully broadcast his talent to anyone who hasn't yet been converted. But for novices, there were always all those racks of clothes to drift through deliriously.

— Tim Blanks

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