纽约时装周 2009春夏男裝－Rag & Bone

Rag & Bone

雖然美元走貶，但似乎沒有打斷設計師們深耕紐約的念頭。像是雙人組設計師David Neville和Marcus Wainwright最近就在克里斯多福街上開了間Rag & Bone品牌的大型旗艦店。雖說前進美國，但留著英倫血液的他們，骨子裡的風格還是為這季帶來了龐克風尚。在女裝方面，合身的窄版皮夾克與蘇格蘭格紋雙排扣上衣搭配窄領帶，與煙管褲的組合相當帥氣。略長的褲管在高跟鞋上方的腳踝處形成皺褶與堆疊，中和了上半身的層次混搭，達到了整體造型的完美平衡。

雖然Rag & Bone品牌給你的印象向來就是一派黑色勁旅，但在這季春夏，設計師刻意的把亮眼色彩帶進這個龐克帝國，從檸檬黃、寶石藍到科技銀，偏向成熟夜空的神秘色彩有別於其他多數愛走卡娃伊路線的紐約設計師。雖然說英國的音樂對這個系列影像甚鉅，但它呈現在服裝的輪廓線上卻還是參照了紐約上城東區的高貴華麗感，像是斜肩剪裁的幾何拼接洋裝、深Ｖ領的針織衫搭配格紋襯衫則較為年輕。David和Marcus用造型多元卻風格統一的系列，和嶄新的時裝店，證明了他們頗有在紐約時尚圈嶄露頭角的決心。

September 5, 2008

Maybe it’s their roots in denim, but Marcus Wainwright and David Neville’s success feels so utterly tagged to America that it’s easy to forget they’re both from England. That misapprehension was well and truly addressed with this new collection, in which they surrendered to the allure of England’s ultra-style tribes, the mods, the rockers, and their bastard skinhead and punk offspring. They’re scarcely the first designers to do so—Neil Barrett and Costume National’s Ennio Capasa have both heeded the call in recent seasons. And if Rag & Bone might suffer a little by comparison, the mod/rocker narrative thread is so innately strong that it gave Wainwright and Neville’s latest collection a real coherence and energy.

The rocker element was represented by biker leathers and zippered jeans, or a jacket-and-jeans outfit in indigo denim. Mod was covered by an elongated Edwardian-style jacket, a shrunken schoolboy-proportioned suit in tweed, or a khaki parka. (The only thing missing was the Union Jack bull’s-eye.) The plaid shirt with the tiny button-down collar worn with suspenders, cropped pants, and boots was quintessential early seventies skin. But the designers had the smarts to bring the whole idea forward a little by introducing Joy Division’s Ian Curtis (or Anton Corbijn’s version of him) into the mix. The circle is unbroken.

— Tim Blanks

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