纽约时装周 2009春夏男裝－Patrik Ervell

在所有設計師都在強調輪廓與剪裁的時節，時尚編輯們想必實在非常開心能看到Patrik Ervell始終有源源不絕的創意，找來最搶眼的圖案，並賦予男人最新潮的搭配。而難能可貴的是，這些搶眼的裝飾性元素，竟繞了一圈回到了其他設計師貫徹「極簡」理念想要達到實穿的效果。簡單來說，就是Patrik Ervell的織料圖案既特別卻不怪異，新穎卻很耐看，只要經過適當的搭配，都能夠是都會男人的日常穿著。像本季開秀的平行細條紋閃電夾克，就彷彿視覺的漩渦，能將男人帶往繽紛異想的時髦俱樂部。

淡雅清爽的粉色調是Patrik Ervell的品牌印象，在本季依舊可以見到亞麻白、象牙色與粉紅、水藍色等爽朗光譜。只是所有知道Patrik Ervell時尚理論的人，都會知道他要玩的是新世代的宮廷精緻裝飾，在這個新的王朝裡，同色的刺繡珍珠儘管手工繁複，都只是為了增加一點視覺的豐盛感，而絕對不允許逾越「炫耀」的圍籬，所以不難想像這個禁慾自制的男性時裝路線，會有多麼受到低調奢華的新富豪階級所熱力追捧了。

September 7, 2008

Patrik Ervell's original position on menswear was archetypal Americana, but in the end that was a restriction for him. He talked about his latest collection drawing on "fabrics from English tennis clubs" (wool-linen blends, apparently) and Ettore Sottsass' Milanese furniture design collective, Memphis, in the eighties. The offshore influences clearly liberated Ervell. "Dynamism of pattern"—that's how he described it. And he was right: The patchwork of stripes in the hoodie of the opening outfit immediately echoed Sottsass et al., and stripes were a recurring and dynamic motif in jackets, pants, and shirts. They came in every width, from mattress ticking to pinstripe to awning.

There was a time when restraint was almost a curse for Ervell (like last season, for instance), but the profligacy of stripes said those days were gone. So did the generous proportions of an ivory cotton suit. The designer's knack for peculiar tech fabrics reached new heights with the filmy overlay on a blouson, and the poncho that flew away in points like angel's wings. In the past, Ervell has been shy of decoration. He's clearly over that, too. It wasn't just the delicate little boutonnieres, or the ruffle-fronted Desi Arnaz shirts. The polo entirely covered with mother-of-pearl buttons had a dandy zap that was reminiscent of Duckie Brown's more extreme flights of fancy. And that's one more thing to be grateful for in New York's burgeoning menswear scene: the ability to balance sweater-and-jeans pragmatism with a freefall into full-on glamour.

— Tim Blanks

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