纽约时装周 2009春夏男裝－Perry Ellis Signature

Perry Ellis是美國非常老字號的運動品牌，在Perry Ellis還在世時，該品牌可說是紅片紐約時尚，Marc Jacobs剛從時尚學校畢業時，也曾經替該品牌擔任設計師，接替當時過世的年輕設計師Perry Ellis，但Marc Jacobs並沒有從該品牌走出國際，而是最後在Louis Vuitton出頭。

雖然Perry Ellis難與頂極時尚相比，不過在美國男裝時尚中，還算是小有名氣，從這幾年的設計師來看，可明顯感受他們在男性流行時尚中想創造主流，今年男時裝秀，特別強調合身剪裁的西裝配上短褲，來呈現休閒時尚，可看出設計師John Crocco想搶回High End 男裝市場。

September 5, 2008

When John Crocco said his new collection for Perry Ellis was democratic preppy, he meant it politically, as in preppy without the privilege. Too bad that such a bold statement didn’t translate into energy on the catwalk. Crocco talked about making color a key component of the collection as an antidote to neutrality, but the fact that he opted for ice-creamy shades kind of undercut his intention (and calling the dominant tone “boy blue” didn’t make it more interesting). Still, the designer’s knack for detail made something he called a “vacation shirt” look good. And drawstring cargo pants in natural linen also cried out for a holiday. Crocco may have a dry wit—at least, I think that explained the pink polka dots he embroidered all over a tan blouson and a pair of shorts. Elsewhere, he opted for the boxy suit that is already asserting itself as the shape of the season in New York (if you need a cultural touchstone, it has to be Mad Men). Crocco’s was crinkled. But if times are really so tough, he has nothing to lose by pushing the boat out a little more. Maybe he’ll be more direct with his next collection. If McCain wins, he’s promised it will be all black. “I’ll be in mourning.”

— Tim Blanks

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