巴黎时装周 2009春夏男裝－Lanvin

上一季歐洲春夏男裝風雲品牌非Lanvin莫屬，Lucas Ossendrijver堪稱先驅者般的，將睡衣（pajama）休閒風潮帶入時尚圈，時至今日儼然蔚為主流態勢，但是Ossendrijver完全不滿足於此。大量的女性陰柔特質注入男裝是設計師的首要概念：柔軟富彈性伸縮的上衫袖口束緊如燈籠袖、而收腰長袖上衣則在腰間繫著細版腰封、打摺處理的狩獵夾克、極貼身如leggings的褲裝、這些大量軟質剪裁質料，就是Lucas Ossendrijver目前最偏愛的new styles。


當然，皮革剪裁成捲曲飄逸狀、或者尼龍防風上衣、丹寧peacoat夾克外罩丹寧短褲、以及品牌宗師Alber Elbaz擅玩的柔媚線條，全都被Lucas Ossendrijver混融一氣；Ossendrijver相當高明擷取Alber Elbaz的經典珍珠裝飾於男仕服裝中，無論配件/t恤/針織上衫/或是外套夾克，我們都可顯見大量的Elbaz影響身影出沒。高跟珠飾涼鞋則是另一焦點所在，兼具叛逆頹廢以及宗教神性氣質的夾腳涼拖，堪稱經典的不實穿焦點。


"clothes with emotion"，是設計師的自喻，但更多的感覺，或許還還得讓消費者慢慢搜尋消化之後，才能成就時代品味。

June 29, 2008

The last day of Europe's Spring menswear schedule belonged to Lanvin. Fair enough—Lucas Ossendrijver pioneered the pajama-easy languor that has been one of the season's biggest trends—but he wasn't resting on his laurels. The designer originally opted for a big-volume statement, but then he decided to inject a little tension into the collection by torturing the volume into something else. He did this, for instance, with the elastic that tightened cuffs and gave a blazer a blouson waistband. Ossendrijver also used pintucking, pleats, or ruching on the sleeves of a safari jacket, or on a pair of pants so narrow they might have been leggings. It was a way of giving the sinuous fabrics he favors a new movement.

Elsewhere, he let the volume fly free in a leather trench, a nylon windbreaker, or a denim peacoat layered over denim shorts. They added a tough little fillip to a collection that otherwise was very much in the ambiguous vein that Ossendrijver and his mentor Alber Elbaz have made the signature of Lanvin's menswear. Hence, a tee beaded with a trompe l'oeil necklace effect, a male version of the faux tulle-mounted jewelry in Elbaz's womenswear. Or a matching jacket and top in a nubby black jacquard, or more of that clinging knitwear. The fabric sandals were also polymorphous (less so, the beaded high-tops). But this time around, Ossendrijver struck a faultless balance between the decadent and the divine. He claimed he was seeking "clothes with emotion." The rapturous response of the audience suggested he'd found them.

— Tim Blanks

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