巴黎时装周 2009春夏男裝－John Galliano

誇張至極的眼花混亂，讓全場觀眾目不暇給、且不知所措，繽紛瘋狂以及overload，也的確是John Galliano一向以來的拿手好戲；若要解釋09春夏的時尚意涵，那麼，來自日本大阪角色多重扮演之下的manga boys、倫敦東區傳統皇家慣用大量珍珠鈕扣造型的Pearly Kings、以及驍勇古老的喜馬拉雅山區民族Gurkha戰士、（還有著名的捷克開膛手和另類美導昆塔塔倫提諾的B級血腥爛電影造型）種種詭異造型John Galliano混稱”PUNK”？！或是無政府主義style？

當然這類壟統又天馬行空式的答案是Galliano的制式風格，但令人難解的是：綴上印度前總理尼赫魯式小領的咖啡色短身皮夾克、madras質材棉布妝飾、海軍樣式藍白外套以及針織造型夾克的變態混搭，尤其是部分三角內褲的整體造型、更讓全場傳媒哭笑不得難以言喻，你只能形容這些玩意真的只能適用於Quentin的血腥 B片裡。

而誇張的妝容則來自d’Ys和Pat McGrath兩位華麗搖滾化妝大師手筆，你不得不讚嘆John Galliano的時裝王國，益趨綜藝華麗但也愈來越偏離現實世界。

June 27, 2008

The colorful tumult of characters that peopled John Galliano’s finale looked like someone had tipped a box of candies on the catwalk. It was almost impossible to absorb the spectacle. But information overload is one of Galliano’s most perceptive contributions to the modern fashion lexicon. If his usual polyglot cast of thousands included manga boys from Osaka, Pearly Kings from London’s East End, and fearsome Gurkha warriors (plus Jack the Ripper and Quentin Crisp), the thread that held them all together was PUNK. Galliano remains fashion’s standard-bearer for his original anarchic, anything-is-possible spirit, and he continues to unhinge the considered response to what he’s doing by dumping so much on his audience that you can barely pause to wonder if you’ve been had (and that’s a pretty punk reaction in itself).

It’s become a somewhat formulaic response to play hunt-the-real-clothes in one of Galliano’s fashion farragoes, but here goes: the brown leather jacket with the Nehru collar, the madras bits and pieces, a tailored navy jacket with white piping, a pinstriped duster, the croc-stamped biker jacket…I could witter on. But that response can’t do justice to the effort of the Galliano team. There was, for example, the segment where Galliano was promoting his underwear license, which was staged as a salute to Quentin Crisp, one of the last great English eccentrics. Milliner Stephen Jones rose to the occasion with a set of supernal hats, and hair and makeup gurus Julien d’Ys and Pat McGrath made a glam-rock moment live again. Anything to juice the jocks. Thus did a tip of the cap to a burgeoning corner of the Galliano empire become a splendid piece of entertainment—as well as a reminder that if the Galliano team were having a party while they were making this stuff, they were generous enough to let us in later.

— Tim Blanks

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