巴黎时装周 2009春夏男裝－Comme des Garçons

"In the end, black is best"，川久保玲永遠的支持者、也是她的丈夫Adrian Joffe這麼評論服裝秀，並且接著說：「Rei Kawakubo一直都偏愛男生身著女性裙裝！」一些黑色一些及膝裙，看似清楚再不過的季節主題其實，要是了解設計師的精靈古怪，你絕對會思索質疑出些許隱含在深層的反叛意涵。

立體打摺像似女學生制服的黑裙搭配著白色襯衫或T-Shirt，活脫脫是希臘軍隊小士兵的翻版、亦或像是活耀於30-50年代攝影大師August Sander眼中穿戴圍裙的極右派專制國家的勞動工人；特別當Stephen Jones知名的軟頂帽配襯上Kawakubo長及地板的寬褲或摺裙時，更多的角色扮演於焉出現：艾德華時期的貴族家庭私人女老師、或是神學校院的中性氣質寄宿男校生，都是堪稱貼切的造型複製。

抓皺摺邊/細巧珠飾、隱約可見的性感網紗裝飾、甚至點綴在長裙邊緣的荷葉緄邊襯裙、等等看似細微不過的設計元素，都展現了強大的感染力：除了完全顛覆陽剛男性的沙文氣質，同時，也刻意尖銳的挑釁著刻版的男人形象！？或許總觀來說，Rei Kawakubo不似嫡傳徒弟Junya Watanabe般嘩眾搶眼，但是需要慢慢品味享受的低調意蘊卻是Rei Kawakubo永遠令人望塵莫及、也更加欽羨的設計天賦！

June 27, 2008

"In the end, black is best," said Adrian Joffe as he fished for a rationale for his wife Rei Kawakubo’s latest collection for Comme des Garçons. "And she's always loved men in skirts." Lots of black, lots of skirts—that goes some way toward clarifying the show’s variations on a theme. But it scarcely goes all the way, because, as usual, there was such a weight of subtext in Comme's presentation. Take men in skirts. As depicted in the show, with a skirt pleated and white, like the traditional uniform of a Greek soldier, or full and white, like the apron of a worker in an August Sander photograph, or short and black, like a schoolgirl's uniform, men were a many and varied feast. Wearing one of Stephen Jones’ squashy hats and Rei’s floor-length black number, a man might even be cast as the stern governess of an Edwardian household. Or a slightly twisted seminarian. ("Savage priests" was actually another of Joffe's cryptic offerings.) Frilling, beading, netting, even the hint of a petticoat under a particularly flouncy skirt, suggested a subversive assault on masculine certitudes, but the jackets and tailcoat embossed with a circular motif, or the splotchy print of photons pinging around on a suit were less ambiguous. Likewise, the barbed-wire design embossed on a top. And it’s more likely barbed wire than, say, the stern-governess look that will make it to the floor of CdG's men's shops.

— Tim Blanks

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