巴黎时装周 2009春夏男裝－Ann Demeulemeester

美麗的巧合總是在不經意間發生、而且不經意的造成混亂困惑造後、造就不經意之下的驚喜。美國經典的民謠搖滾女歌手Patti Smith十分著迷於19世紀初期的德國詩人藝術家Hermann Hesse，當Patti特地去瑞士博物館朝聖著Hesse的生平藝作時候，她驚訝的發現，這位嚴謹地文學藝術大師是如何細心保存著，他所經常穿的衣衫；恰巧在同時，服裝設計師Ann Demeulemeester正在構思著該如何詮釋她長久的靈感謬思Patti Smith之際，Hesse寫作生涯中的最後一篇小說The Glass Bead Game也正在Demeulemeester腦海中逐漸成型。而當Ann Demeulemeester在巴黎舉行新裝發表會時，Patti Smith更大方支持的端坐在最前排，拿出她心愛的Polaroid Land復古相機，捕捉著關於Hermann Hesse以及Demeulemeester的一切。

設計師的collection展在巴黎Université Pierre et Marie Curie的花園中展演，，雖然園中滿是燦爛俏麗的繡球花盛開，但是Demeulemeester似乎是要以低調黯黑的傳教士風格來對比反差出明媚花園景況；些許動物圖樣、些許黑白外套層次互搭、以及象牙白與慘白色的配襯，幾近無彩度色系的演出，彷彿是場年輕男孩群聚的丧禮般詭異；不禁讓人這麼解讀：你的年紀越大你接近天使蒂距離也越近！？

緊接在Etro和Yohji Yamamoto之後演出的作品展，在我們看完senior citizens的輕鬆與明亮造型之後，或許陰鬱深沉的文學氣質，也可以是展現新意的另類迷人選擇。

June 28, 2008

Coincidence is a fine, flummoxing thing. Patti Smith loves Hermann Hesse, and on a pilgrimage to the Swiss museum that celebrates his life and art, she saw his carefully preserved clothes. Meanwhile, Ann Demeulemeester, the designer for whom Smith has been a longtime inspiratrice, was thinking about Hesse's The Glass Bead Game as she sat down to design her new collection. Patti happens to be in Paris, shows up to take pictures in Ann’s front row with her vintage Polaroid Land Camera, only to learn the show’s all about Hermann. Phew!

Demeulemeester's Spring show was set in the garden of the Université Pierre et Marie Curie. It's surrounded by hydrangeas, the flowers that contributed to last season's floral splendors, but this time, Demeulemeester seemed to have retreated to the dark, defrocked-preacher vibe of earlier offerings. There's always gorgeousness in her proposals—here, a doubled jacket, black over white, and a splodge pattern that was her version of an animal print—but one initially hoped for more light in the darkness. Then it arrived in the form of ten elderly men, dressed in shades of ivory and white that contrasted with the funereal tones worn by the young models who had previously trolled the catwalk. The message seemed obvious: The older you are, the closer to the angels you get. After the Etro and Yohji shows, with their jaunty senior citizens, we may be looking at a new fashion trend.(And the third time's the charm.)

— Tim Blanks

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