巴黎时装周 2009春夏男裝－Yohji Yamamoto

就算是以細密手工織造當作質材主要首選、就算是一直以來的低調奢靡性格、就算是這次新作演出的模特兒們幾乎都是像設計師同世代的老型男、Yohji Yamamoto無遠弗屆的孤傲藝術家氣質和神秘思緒、依舊如傳染病蔓延般侵襲著所有時尚先驅迷們；當所有參予演出的老模們在秀展結束前，魚貫走出舞台的那一刻，彷彿就像是Clint Eastwood的優雅時尚版本超現實豋場般，令人興奮撩眼。
抓皺縮絨的布料處理、寬鬆與合身並存互搭的表現手法、不突兀的多色塊圖樣、腿側和袖側的條狀滾邊設計，讓Yamamoto的作品散發著經典的low-key奢華以及跨世代的雋永感動。
非職業的藝術家models和青春洋溢的專業男模組成的走秀隊伍：特別是甫獲得08坎城影展新銳導演的Steve McQueen，更以其獨特size身型，讓設計師選他為所有服裝的尺寸標準；除了刻意顛覆既有傳統展現自我傲氣之外，Yohji Yamamoto尚有著強烈政治社會意識："The world is becoming worse and worse,"、 "My message is, let`s be happy"，山本耀司在秀場後台如是說；當然所謂”極致的快樂”並未展現在他的黯黑藍、粗糙緄邊、不對稱剪裁單品中，但是運用貼花圖樣手勢和印繡文字標語的設計構思像是"Shall We? " "Don`t Do That," "Forget Me Not"，倒卻十足顯露出Yamamoto叛逆顛覆的頑童性格。搶眼後一章：請特別注意橘紅色與鈷藍色的縷空蕾絲襯衫，魅眼百分百！

June 26, 2008

There's been a certain low-key grandeur to Yohji's collections of late, but he really dialed down the volume with this homespun offering. A handful of the models were his own age—handsome old guys, their faces a road map—and when they all took the stage at show's end, it was sort of like an elegiac Clint Eastwood moment. Kinda fab, kinda sad, with clothes to match. Hence, the topstitching that gave some of the pieces such a worn-but-worthy edge, like wrinkles. (The hopsack suit with its red threads suggested that Mama ran out of cotton while she was sewing it at home.)

Couple the unprofessionals with the young models—and the defiantly chunky English artist Steve McQueen—and it was obvious that Yohji was making a statement about all shapes and sizes. But he also had another political point to make. "The world is becoming worse and worse," he said backstage. "My message is, let's be happy." It might be that happiness is a moveable feast for him, because it wasn't immediately obvious in the dark fabrics, rough textures, and signature asymmetry. But a series of jackets appliquéd with gestures and phrases that could be interpreted as the analysis of a relationship—"Shall We? " "Don't Do That," "Forget Me Not"—were drolly amusing. And the lace shirts in red and cobalt blue were upliftingly decorative—by Yohji's light, at least.

— Tim Blanks

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