巴黎时装周 2009春夏男裝－Viktor&Rolf

Viktor & Rolf以單人秀的型態在倫敦的博物館展出它們09春夏的最新作品；這是個相當成功、也非常能夠展現兩位設計師天縱英才的發表演出，但問題是，美麗的衣衫是否也適合現實世界中的美麗穿著，而更尖銳的疑問是，是否Viktor & Rolf總是以天賦的設計概念取勝、而卻忽略了真正人們的實際需要？
兩位設計師在09春夏的創意靈感主要是五零年代的夏威夷情調，那是個表現純粹優雅的年代。雖然V/R並未以全然夏威夷風情的瑣碎事務來強調風格，像是翠綠鮮竹、tiki-mask圖樣、或是大量的熱帶花卉，而是運用短褲、斜肩寬鬆外套、以及像似睡衣模樣的寬軟長褲來演譯太平洋島嶼的悠閒氣質；.格紋或橫條紋T恤搭配半正式晚禮服外套、絲質立體花圈則是大量點綴垂掛在或長袖或短袖的西裝外套前、閃爍絲緞光澤的淡色長褲上印染有好喝的馬丁尼酒杯圖案、天空藍西裝外套的長型領口則裝飾黑色絲緞緄邊。（有趣的模樣好像是拉斯維加斯酒店的駐場魔術師！）
當然，除了稍嫌滑稽怪異的單品混搭，華麗品項也沒缺席喔，Swarovski水晶珠飾裝綴成熱帶花朵圖形，縫繡在魔術師西裝領間或長褲側邊，應該勉強算是Viktor & Rolf貢獻給自己品牌的晚宴小驚喜吧。

June 28, 2008

Viktor & Rolf are currently the subject of a museum show in London that spotlights their talents as installation artists. It's a huge success, but it has the paradoxical side effect of underscoring just how academic their approach to designing actual clothes for actual people is. And nowhere is this dilemma more acute than with their men's collection—it's always been concept over clothing. V&R's latest idea was Hawaii in the fifties, a time when they felt people had a natural elegance. That wasn’t precisely the quality that their bamboo-print shirts, tiki-mask motifs, and faux wood-grain jacquards conveyed, but at least there was a degree of accessibility in such kitschery. Jackets were shorter and roomier, to the point where one was padless and drop-shouldered (not a success). Trousers had a pajama-pant ease.

The ruling notion was easy pieces with embellishment. Think gingham caning on a tuxedo shirt and silk flowers attached like a lei around the neck of another shirt. Chinos were embroidered with little martini glasses, a WASP-y reference that Ralph Lauren might wish he'd thought of. A sky-blue tux jacket with a black satin lapel and a ruffled front harked back to the imaginary Vegas magician who V&R cooked up as a muse several seasons back. (Yikes! He's clearly still on a losing streak.) Slightly more pleasing were the Swarovski-beaded tropical blooms that decorated the lapels and trouser legs of another evening look.

— Tim Blanks

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