巴黎时装周 2009春夏男裝－Number (N)ine

繼前幾季的搖滾偶像Kurt Cobain之後，滾石合唱團早逝的傳奇團長Brian Jones，是Takahiro Miyashita最新一季的設計icon！雖然這陣子Miyashita從德州奧斯丁/蒙大拿/波特蘭/奧勒岡到西雅圖幾乎踏片半個美國中西部的長途旅行，但他腦海中卻始終深刻著Brian Jones的悲劇形象。

首先從齊耳的白金色假髮開始、長短不一多層次穿搭的織花錦緞/天鵝絨/蕾絲、流蘇綴飾/綑帶及膝褲、和緊裹小腿肚的襪飾、讓意欲徹底模倣Jones的模特兒們反而有點像十八世紀歐洲貴族的奴僕或是那部六零年代瑞典情色電影Fanny Hill中的女主角造型；就如同邀請函上描述的"The nut buttons take on 11 colors in four contrasting tones, each with their own unique concha design"，Miyashita以繽紛壯麗的強烈視覺感，來壓迫震撼所有現場觀眾。

Miyashita形容09春夏新作為"The Lonesome Heroes"，當然，Miyashita藉由精緻造作的服裝來表現它對於died young doomed rockers的崇敬更讓人驚喜感動，除了精采豐盛的視覺饗宴、其內蘊的反時代迷幻精神才更讓人玩味。

June 26, 2008

Hands up anyone who thinks Brian Jones is the unsung genius of the Rolling Stones. Takahiro Miyashita is your man. After seasons of Cobain worship, the Number (N)ine designer has found another doomed rocker to build a world around. And what a world! One of his regular hegiras recently took Miyashita from Austin, Texas, to Butte, Montana, new geographical loci to add to his beloved Portland, Oregon, and Seattle. But he also had Jones on his mind, and what that hodgepodge of input yielded was something so jaw-droppingly peculiar that it was actually…mesmerizing.

Start with the wigs, which mimicked Jones' Little Lord Fauntleroy bangs. (Squint at them sideways, and they could have been late-period Peggy Lee.) Progress to layer upon layer of Jones' dandy brocades, velvets, and laces, all tricked out with trailing cords, tassels, and ties so that they looked like eighteenth-century bondage gear (think Fanny Hill, for anyone who remembers that erotic classic, which is probably just about as lost to the YouTube generation as Brian Jones). Miyashita's attention to detail bordered on breathtakingly obsessive: "The nut buttons take on 11 colors in four contrasting tones, each with their own unique concha design," said the press notes. Case rests.

The designer called his collection "The Lonesome Heroes," echoing the open spaces of Texas and Montana. Leaving aside the obvious dig that any hero who dressed like this would invite loneliness, Miyashita's cinematic sensibility ensured a lushly consistent trip. As in acid, not road.

— Tim Blanks

[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]  ... 下一页  >>