巴黎时装周 2009春夏男裝－Louis Vuitton

在Louis Vuitton的邀請函上特別強調出，Charlie Chaplin（aka Little Tramp）的成功以及成為百萬富豪（在當時）的性格，這位喜劇之王獨特的成功特質是品牌設計師Paul Helbers在新季節唯一且重要且遵循的靈感源頭。同時，英國樂隊Tindersticks也以mixed up的音樂型態，作為秀場主題配樂，並向卓別林的經典之作City Lights致敬，在不斷重複的音樂中，取材自卓別林身上的嶄新作品演出，顯的別具意義。

大量的從冰塊白到石灰白等像似漸層加重的白色系單品、大量的膝上短褲、巧妙點綴而且搶眼的石竹粉紅和木炭灰、細膩剪裁的背部抓摺層次襯衫、以及精緻輕薄的巴里紗質材、種種仿如高級訂製服手法的設計、直接被Paul Helbers稱為"couture gathering"；除了簡單卻細緻嬌貴的質料之外，最搶人目光的當然是那一雙雙被視為09春夏超人氣單品的羅馬式捆帶的平底涼鞋喽！

"Less formal more fragile"是設計師所詮釋的新作品定義，重要還不僅於此，這些脫俗清麗的氣質男裝肯定會成為，那些Banana Republicans們奉為穿衣聖經的最高指導準則。

June 26, 2008

The press notes opened with a quote from Charlie Chaplin about the randomness of the way the Little Tramp, the character that made him his millions, came together. Paul Helbers, studio director for Louis Vuitton's menswear, invoked Charlie as a guiding spirit for this new collection. And Tindersticks mixed up a special soundtrack of their songs and the music for Chaplin's City Lights. As random as the inspiration seemed, it was clearly significant. Could it produce sparks? Well, in a word, no. "Less formal more fragile," was Helbers' intent. That translated as an icily pale color palette (a handful of charcoals and pinks excepted), lots of shorts (bare legs can look fragile on the right model), delicate fabrics like voile, and details such as "couture gathering," which pleated the back of shirts into poetically blouse-y volumes. In such a subdued context, the knitwear and accessories loomed spectacularly (this collection always excels at shoes, and Spring 2009 welcomes the apotheosis of the espadrille). And, given the inspiration that Vuitton famously offers others, there will surely be a lot of Banana Republicans who will be keen to absorb the proposals of Helbers and his team.

— Tim Blanks

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