巴黎时装周 2009春夏男裝－Junya Watanabe

十足都會的時尚模樣是巴黎以及其他主要流行城市在09春夏最鍾意的造型，特別是熱情活力與積極正面的態度，總是討喜且具賣相；但是，Junya Watanabe卻不這麼認為；在The Beatles鼓手Ringo Starr沙啞嗓音的“gonna take a sentimental journey”秀場主題歌曲中，Watanabe以古老殖民地時期的旅人裝扮彼此呼應著；巴拿馬寬沿帽、外翻襯衫領與小領帶、合身外套和百慕達短褲、以及平底saddle shoes、和多色菱格花紋短毛襪等，信心滿滿的建構醞釀出古典又古樸的春夏經典！

每位模特兒幾乎都手拎一具斑駁破舊貼滿旅行標籤貼紙的大皮箱（千位別懷疑，在那個時代的皮箱裡永遠裝著隨身聖經），卡其短褲或及踝長褲、狩獵風格的輕便外套、袖口反摺露出鮮豔內搭或襯裡的類短身西裝外套、以及那些裝飾拉鍊的棉質格紋襯衫、這些風味懷舊的單品再襯搭著從運動上衣”變形”成madras/純棉的及腰夾克，除了有型到位，還有請花些雙倍預算來搭配吧。

今次，Watanabe首度商請Brooks Brothers來個跨品牌合作，也同時繼續和老搭檔Lacoste、Levi’s繼續廝混造反、以及與經常跟當紅歌手合作的英國潮流品牌Baracuta相互搭配一陣。風格獨特、路線獨行的Junya Watanabe，不僅另類路線益發鮮明迷人、幾乎超越師傅川久保玲的態勢也蓄勢待發、難以捉摩描繪的時髦魅力更季復一季的絕對令人期待！

June 27, 2008

The road trip is a popular notion in Paris this season. With the way of the world, people just want to get up and go. But inevitably, Junya Watanabe’s interpretation wasn’t quite so straightforward. With Ringo Starr croaking “gonna take a sentimental journey” on the soundtrack, Junya’s take on travelers initially suggested old colonials, decked out in Panama hats, collar-and-tie, jackets and Bermuda shorts, saddle shoes, and Argyle socks. And lugging huge, bruising suitcases, to boot (undoubtedly containing a Bible). But then the world of Watanabe literally flipped, as models doffed their navy blazers, reversed them, and returned in a khaki safari jacket, say, or something in gingham with a zip. The best was the tan blazer that transmogrified into a madras jean jacket, the kind of double-your-money proposition that cash-stretched voyagers would fall greedily upon. The cream of this particular jest was that it resulted from Junya’s collaboration with Brooks Brothers, which was producing this segment of the collection for the first time. Other collaborators included Lacoste, Levi’s, and—new this season—Baracuta, the U.K. makers of the Harrington jacket. Who knows if it’s fetishism or respect or whatever—he sure isn’t saying—but Junya’s style anthropology remains one of the most riveting way stations on the Paris fashion calendar.

— Tim Blanks

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