巴黎时装周 2009春夏男裝－Jean Paul Gaultier

略為漫延薄霧的伸展台、眩日高升的伸展台背幕、以及六零年代美國女歌手Bobbie Gentry充滿鄉村藍調旋律的秀場主題音樂“Ode to Billie Joe”，種種的氛圍鋪陳，預告了新時裝的風格走向；或許你仍舊以為Jean Paul Gaultier會繼續賣弄他在夏天向來擅長的男性肉體崇拜，那麼就大錯特錯了！？


壯碩依舊的模特兒們，一個個不是留著山羊鬍鬚就是嘴嚼麥草桿，被時裝遮蔽的肌肉線條，似乎還是相當能夠讓現場女仕們垂涎不已；當然，”適當的”裸露依舊令人目不暇給，除了健美陽剛的背膀、穿著三角內褲的造型更是性感有餘；不過像是亞麻質料的狩獵外套、格紋襯衫、咖啡褐皮夾克和Gaultier極偏愛的海軍橫條紋T恤的部份，倒還是相當得體順眼；但總括來說，混融了美國西部牛仔裝扮的造型，還真是有股看不出時髦程度的詭異。

June 26, 2008

A sun rose on the backdrop, there was a light haze of steam over the catwalk, and Bobbie Gentry was singing “Ode to Billie Joe.” The omens were good for one of Jean Paul Gaultier's twisty, boundary-pushing exercises in male…Oops! Wrong-o! As refreshing as his beardy, straw-chewin' bunch of good ole boys was in light of the pallid ingenues who continue to stalk Europe's runways, Gaultier gave us a collection that trod water. He can do this sort of stuff with one arm—hell, both arms—tied behind his back. Master tailor, master craftsman, master provocateur—maybe it's hard for him to know how to play that blend in the current fashion climate.

But there are always gorgeous bits in a Gaultier collection. Here, a glazed linen safari suit, the checked items (he remains a fantastic colorist), and a brown leather biker jacket, whose appeal may have been its uncomplicated unambiguity. But the sneaky suspicion lingers that maybe he actually has done it all—and familiarity is working its chill effect.

— Tim Blanks

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