米蘭时装周 2009春夏男裝－Calvin Klein Collection

儘管運動風格出現在春夏季節的男裝非常合理，但沒有一次像今年如此熱烈，連同極簡又都會摩登的Calvin Klein Collection男人，也大幅的加重了運動風格的元素，在正式西裝上的比例。2008 年是奧林匹克年的影響力，看來依舊在2009年的伸展台上熱列發燒。不過，設計師Italo Zucchelli要呈現的，是更為陽光、純然美式的運動風。如同紙張的俐落材質，在運用上也非常符合體育健兒的速度感。四四方方的闊綽肩線剪裁，則適合在運動過後享受迎面吹來的徐徐涼風。
不過，設計師美式風格的想法說歸說，義大利的精緻男裝剪裁功力，依舊不會被化約。這季Calvin Klein Collection男裝造型依舊以窄版西裝為主。但色調上則跳脫了以往的灰色王道，而以更多的白色（仔細看還可以發現亮白和霧白象牙白的層次感差別）來帶出想像空間，更把從頭到腳全身亮橘色、螢光黃…這種大膽到不行的搭配，推薦給前衛、敢秀的男人，也為這季帶出了豐盛的視覺。

June 24, 2008

The season may be Spring 2009, but 2008 is an Olympic year, and this time around Italo Zucchelli offered his most comprehensive analysis yet of American sportswear. The Stars and Stripes even made an appearance, subtly embossed on tops. The sporting element was literalized in echoes of baseball and fencing (padded blousons and britches) and the use of athletic fabrics: gray jersey, cotton perforated like Airtex, a high-performance bonded paper. Paper? Yep, Zucchelli’s fabric experimentation came up with something that looked like leather but was actually superstrong paper. Turn it into a tee, pair it with chambray jeans, and you had the Zucchelli pitch in a nutshell: emblematic sportswear items transmuted for the future.

Same with the tailoring he has focused so tightly on since he came to Klein. Suits had a slightly boxier—or more generous—feel, but he whacked them with a hit of fluoro color so intense the audience actually gasped. It was an early sixties vision of the future—Mad Men Go to Mars—an impression that was helped along by Chet Baker on the soundtrack. As a European, Zucchelli’s perspective on emblems of Americana is inevitably slightly distanced, ironic even. Hence the models' styling: silvery, swept-back hair, glassy blue eyes. In them, Zucchelli saw otherworldly athletic perfection.

— Tim Blanks

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