米蘭时装周 2009春夏男裝－Salvatore Ferragamo

儘管品牌剛過完80大壽，但Salvatore Ferragamo的男裝設計師Massimiliano Giornetti總認為，時尚應該是持續不斷的進化，男裝更不應該拘泥在傳統的正裝或穿著法則。透過剛發表的這個系列，Giornetti成功的塑造出一個喜歡搭配、穿著，並能樂在其中的優雅男人形象。至少第一眼就能從這個男人整體造型的合諧色調中發現，他是有經過精心打扮過的。這季短褲的比例不多，但是羅馬戰士涼鞋卻是不可忽視的必備單品。
這個系列的顯然受到當代藝術相當程度的影響，對色域光譜的敏感度相當高。從鉛白、淺灰、銀色、亮橘、拿鐵色（卡其色漸層到白色）、褐色、桃紅、寶藍…等，彷彿午後的烈日透過一面窗玻璃折射出來的光影變化。儘管整體輪廓看起來寬鬆實穿，但仔細看卻仍覺得裝飾過多。就算說是召喚自大衛鮑伊的時尚靈感（又來了…），也稍嫌失之於太女性化。除去大量運用的緞面色澤不說，圍巾、短風衣、窄腰帶、連衫褲…讓人開始懷疑這究竟是一個活在怎樣世界的時髦男子。

June 22, 2008

It has long been the belief of Massimiliano Giornetti, Ferragamo’s menswear designer, that the modern male no longer observes the traditional codes that dictate dress for day or night. But with this collection, at least, he seemed to be edging toward the conviction that a guy is happy to be really dressed up almost all the time. Say it ain’t so! Giornetti was feeling the opulence of the Raj, so there were exotic details and colors galore in his clothes. A tip-to-toe evening look in orange (shoes included) was outdone only by the exact same in fuchsia. Petals of silk flowered from a shirt placket like a jabot, and pearls and garlands of fabric flowers were slung round the necks of the catwalk princelings. It may well have been excess in the interest of showtime, but even granted that, there wasn’t much that felt…natural. A loosely woven macramé sweater had a dishabille ease, and there were some sheer shirts for summer. Also, a pair of white coveralls, though perhaps “jumpsuit” is more appropriate in this context: The staging evoked David Bowie’s Station to Station tour. Not usually a bad thing, except that here it served as a reminder that Giornetti’s previous collections did a better job of drawing the decadence of the night into the sunlight.

— Tim Blanks

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