米蘭时装周 2009春夏男裝－Missoni

如果說上季那個招致眾人抨擊的Missoni男裝系列有讓Angela Missoni學到什麼，那就是千萬不要挑戰時尚界容忍俗氣的極限，指的當然不是Missoni的獨家招牌花色，而是設計師Angela Missoni把設計靈感延伸到她男朋友Bruno Ragazzi的訂製西裝裡。訂製？我們現在說的是那個以浪漫悠閒極富藝術感的Missoni嗎？高級成衣的確要求細膩的作工，但要能登上時裝伸展台，更需要的是穿搭的創意，和設計的態度，這兩樣，很顯然的訂製西裝裡，都找不到。
看來這季Angela Missoni為了釋放那些批評帶來的壓力，給自己好好放了個假。而且男友Ragazzi這次（為了贖罪？）可是親手參加設計，他們把這季春夏的Missoni男人，先帶到了Como湖邊他的私人遊艇上，好好享受個日光浴，因此設計了許多敞胸單穿的西上裝，或V領的針織衫。基本上，寬鬆的輪廓、羊毛編織的質地，這些Missoni招牌元素都沒變，但塊面色彩變多，系列變的更明亮了，讓人很容易想到亞蘭德倫的摩登，或Saint-Tropez度假，或者兩者的結合。

June 21, 2008

If lumpen heaviness was a critique that was leveled at the last Missoni men’s collection, then Angela Missoni clearly sucked it up and did what she had to. Last time around, she was talking about finding inspiration in her boyfriend Bruno Ragazzi’s tailor-made clothing. This time, he was on hand for the show, just off his boat on Lake Como, tanned, open-necked, the aspirational embodiment of the collection’s summery ease. The show notes talked about Alain Delon and Saint-Tropez, but all that really means is male glamour and a bang-up holiday, and both of those notions were communicated in clothes that were sensuous, colorful, and uncomplicated. Think a loose-weave knit cardigan over a floral-print shirt. Think cutoff denims. Hell, think suits with sandals. The palette covered sand, sea, and a little green from beachside plant life. But the most encouraging news was the way in which the weight of Missoni tradition translated into something as light as a woven hooded top, or as subtle as the trim on the lapels and pockets of a gray linen suit.

— Tim Blanks

[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]  ... 下一页  >>