米蘭时装周 2009春夏男裝－Marni

方塊輪廓的襯衫、背部打著數條深摺紋的外套、以及內搭合身T恤的四分之三長度半袖外套，精緻卻不顯見的細節處理，像似女裝高級訂製服的內涵，而沒有誇張的外在表現。

設計師Consuelo Castiglioni號稱拿手且偏愛"elegant volume."這款等級的優雅風格，卻在彈性十足的內褲鬆緊腰帶裝飾出現後完全破功！尤其是，竟然將寬大襯衫塞入褲腰其中的搭配，著實讓人發歔；不是說這樣的搭配對或者錯，而是在剪裁以及身型的細部處理方面，應該更加精緻細膩些罷了。

貴族私校寄宿男孩模樣的型塑已經是Consuelo Castiglioni多次賣弄的主題，將女裝柔軟的設計概念融入男裝主線，也堪稱是設計師的拿手好戲，但從未像這次帶來令人沮喪且焦慮的心情，特別對於死忠品牌迷來說；雖然專屬於Marni的蛋白色/石灰色/粉膚色等中性色系還是能夠挑起我們心中的溫柔情緒，但是毫無新鮮感的造型、以及一點也不服膺品牌陰柔形象的不順眼模樣，讓Marni的男孩彷彿即將消失在2009春夏了。

June 24, 2008

It's highly unlikely that the name of "Helen Schjerfbeck, the early twentieth-century Finnish portrait artist" will ever again be invoked as a fashion influence. But that was only one of the unlikely features of Consuelo Castiglioni’s latest men's collection for Marni. Details like the semi-trapeze volume of the shirts, the deeply pleated swing back on the jackets, and the three-quarter sleeve on a coat suggested—to these eyes at least—women's haute couture. And Consuelo was buying the idea, though her preferred terminology was "elegant volume." Still, it wasn't exactly elegance that came to mind when the elasticized waistbands of underwear began to appear. They had shirts tucked into them! And they were worn under shorts with a curiously generous seat.

That's not the first time a disconcerting boarding-school boy chord has been struck in a Marni show, but it highlights a frustration with this collection. While the women's range forges on into spectacular new territory, with the show as an opportunity to present what amounts to a manifesto, the men's is so subtle (and consummately wearable when it hits the shop floor) that it just lies there on the catwalk—unless it's given an incongruous little stylist's twist. That said, you could take away proposals such as the "new" suit (matching car coat and pants) and some very appealing accessories.

— Tim Blanks

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