米蘭时装周 2009春夏男裝－Fendi

「我就是無法抗拒某些我特別偏愛的元素。」Fendi家族繼承人Silvia Venturini Fendi當被詢問關於前季男生穿高跟鞋的問題時這麼形容心態。家族品牌形象早已有著極盡奢華高貴的既定印象，Silvia這次決定顛覆刻版印象、而以“poor”materials來表現她手中的最新作品。

事實上，Silvia是選用天然而簡單的質材，如純棉來傳遞概念；像是疑似皮草覆蓋的短身夾克其實根本只是皮革混織純棉的單純質料，這類混淆視聽的狡詐伎倆尚展現在農夫樣式的針織馬甲背心與寬鬆罩衫上；而兩件式層次搭配的無領t恤下襯及踝窄腳褲的閑適風格，也洋溢著輕鬆愉悅after working的收工好心情。

即便出現那款有像搖滾巨星日常裝束的蟒蛇皮夾克，但Silvia仍然堅持也堅稱她反普歸真又維護”shabby dignity”的浪漫情懷；當然，若你仍然全副武裝的Fendi穿戴滿身，誇張的貴氣依然是不言可喻的。

June 24, 2008

“I just couldn’t resist,” Silvia Venturini Fendi said when she was asked about the wedge-heeled shoes in the latest Fendi collection for men. What she meant was that she’s partial to perversity. In exactly the same way, she dedicated a collection from Fendi, a house whose name is a byword for luxury, to poverty, or at least the ingenuity that comes from people who must make the most of the little they have. So she started with “poor” materials (actually, the simplest, most natural fabrics) and decorated them with plain ideas like cotton topstitching. What looked like a tufty Fendi fur jacket was really an artful mélange of leather and cotton. And a quilted blouson and waistcoat looked like Chinese peasantwear—if you think about it, adapting the idea of artisanal, traditional garments is where Fendi itself began. A knit tabard, for example, was a new version of the waistcoat. And the collarless shirts paired with the pants with the slightly dropped crotch could have been Sunday best for workers from another time and place.

Exactly when and where that might be didn’t particularly interest Silvia, but her impressionistic approach actually produced clothes with a certain shabby dignity. (Okay, the snakeskin jacket was a little more rock star than that.) And there is always a guiding intelligence in this collection that gets you thinking about what kind of thoughtful type might wear these outfits.

— Tim Blanks

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