米蘭时装周 2009春夏男裝－Moschino

將Moschino的09春夏新裝稱之為"Punk-nic"實在非常貼切，試想：像似野餐餐桌巾的格子紋或條紋棉布、但卻裝點上拉鍊或安全別針與紐釦，設計師Franco將其一一圖說解釋，心型圖案/驢子/大別針等超現實的零碎小物皆運用以刺繡方式展現在襯衫/外套以及馬甲背心上；雖然招牌的peace signs（和平標誌）被開襟毛衣遮住，但是值得注意的質材使用才是重點，形容為”candycord”的燈芯絨與泡泡棉紗布料，才一亮相就被預測是2009春夏男裝的大熱門質料，設計師以蒼白藍和淡粉紅套裝呈現出質感的輕盈與涼爽；另外，像極了透明款mac電腦的塑膠外套夾克以科技風格營造未來氣氛、搶眼的kelly-green單品則猶如09年聖派翠克節（St. Pat`s Day）的提前慶祝景象。

當然，自從Moschino早已不算是男裝領導品牌的地位來說，新作品仍堪稱實用也潮流，至少，混融龐克style以及精緻作工的剪裁手法依舊令人讚賞；精神分裂症般的奇異風格大拼盤，其實相當能夠展現Moschino原始精神，戲謔且迷人

June 23, 2008

What exactly were all those weird stuffed insects and animals filling the front-row real estate? Turns out it was Moschino's dig at the fashion luminaries who don't turn up for the house's shows. True, Moschino hasn't been top of the pops for a long while, but that isn't to say that Franco's spirit doesn't still hover over the collection, particularly in its combination of tailored precision and punk attitude. This lot was, in fact, called "Punk-nic"—think a gingham-napkined alfresco snack with zips and safety pins. Franco's iconography (donkeys, hearts, those safety pins, the surreal bits and pieces he'd attach to things) was precisely embroidered here on shirts, jackets, and waistcoats. There was a cardigan covered with the peace signs he used so often. But the predominant impression was left by a fabric called “candycord” (which is, I'm assured, the name for a combination of corduroy and seersucker that is popular for Spring 2009) that was used in pale blue and pink suits. They seemed terribly proper, scarcely troubled at all by the presence of a clear vinyl flasher mac or a kelly-green moment that will be an early celebration of St. Pat's Day 2009. Schizo? Part of the Moschino charm, averred the ladybug two seats down.

— Tim Blanks

[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]  ... 下一页  >>