米蘭时装周 2009春夏男裝－Versace

試著想像一個衣櫃裡，交織著舊時代的優雅與新財富魅力，將是多麼迷人！Versace 2009春夏男裝秀就在英國樂團Ting Tings的樂聲中揭開序幕，在本季Versace希望男裝的款式是寬鬆的設計，已不再為那些肌肉型男來幫忙展示他們的壯碩胸肌。設計中雖然有光滑面料的細翻領西服，但是少了有紳士必備的領帶。改由大量的用絲巾為頸間裝飾，T恤以卷起袖口的形式出現，表現那種戶外運動的休閒氛圍；科技感也是設計師Donatella Versace玩弄的話題，科技塔夫塔綢新材質、未來感的眼鏡，與傳統男性服裝產生衝突的新鮮感。

有趣的是Donatella Versace的09春夏男裝設計的靈感來自美國總統候選人歐巴馬，設計師Donatella Versace表示：她希望新一季的春夏男裝能夠擺脫領帶的束縛，而是單純的享受活潑輕鬆的T恤時光。

June 21, 2008

The relentless enthusiasm of the Ting Tings provided the soundtrack for the latest Versace show. In their native England, they’ve been branded "the new Blondie," which wasn't such a bad place to start when it came to the clothes. Under the auspices of ex-Cloak maestro Alexandre Plokhov, Versace's menswear has taken a turn toward New Wave pop precision, as in the diagonally closing storm flap of a trench, the white piping on an angularly shawl-collared black silk suit, or the double lapels of an evening jacket (open-necked shirt, white silk scarf replacing tie—it's a Christophe Lambert moment!). But such precision also translated in a way that was entirely true to the heritage of the house: a sheer lilac shirt, for instance, with sun-ray seaming, or a silk tuxedo shirt with a wet-look effect.

Technology turned to sensuous advantage—that's the Versace way. Just like the collection’s single graphic—a heavy coil of smoke printed on tees and tanks. This season in Milan is already shaping up as an affair between the ultra-sporty and the ultra-formal. Versace offered its obvious offspring: a graphic pairing of silk suit and flip-flops. The wide-ribbed waist of an ice-blue suede jacket was a more subtle expression—and the militaristic tinge of the parachute detailing on a butter-yellow leather blouson was too Plokhovian for words.

— Tim Blanks

[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]  ... 下一页  >>