米蘭时装周 2009春夏男裝－Gucci

「將華麗與青春，天衣無縫的完美結合。」這是Gucci在新裝邀請函上所闡明的主題描述。Frida Giannini獻出不同於過往品牌風格的嶄新路線，古典兼具帥氣的外型輪廓、配襯上當紅紐約樂團MDMT大受歡迎的"Time to Pretend"作為秀場配樂，清楚標明設計師意圖跨越復古和摩登的強烈野心。

來自布魯克林區雙人組樂隊的叛逆和朝氣特質，與今次品牌意欲傳遞的時代精神相當吻合，Giannini將熱帶叢林的花卉/野生動物圖樣以或刺繡或拼貼或隨意噴灑表現在服裝/鞋款上，剪裁合身的短版蟒蛇皮外套上有著精緻刺繡花紋、摩陀車騎士夾克上綴串珠飾、大膽花朵印染在白色牛仔褲腿上，熱情又豐盛的愉悅氛圍被設計師形容為"happiness"

鸚鵡和巨嘴鳥圖案的短褲、皮革裝飾的狩獵型短褲、清爽透氣的薄料西裝、以及連帽運動外套和條紋及踝長褲等設計素材，是Giannini一向拿手的強項，現在將之重新混合搭配並強調俐落剪裁，建構出年輕男仕迷人的hippie/gypsy chic；同時，迷幻搖滾的MGMT搭配著Giannini招牌的紫水晶孔雀石皮帶，頹廢又時尚的Gucci style好看的令人激賞。

June 23, 2008

Gucci’s press notes invoked "the new way in which youth and luxury can seamlessly coexist." The notion that there might be a new generation hungry for her wares has been Frida Giannini’s career impetus. "We don’t care about the old folks talkin’ ‘bout the old style," indeed. Except it wasn’t that "old" catwalk classic that soundtracked her show. Instead, Giannini enlisted MGMT’s "Time to Pretend" ("this is our decision to live fast and die young") to help put her own thumbprint on the heritage of the house.

The Brooklyn duo’s florid style dictated the shape as well as the sound of the collection. The lean tailoring and the neat little leathers that Giannini loves were sneakily overtaken by a creeping jungle of tropical flora and fauna, embroidered, appliquéd, or airbrushed to spectacular effect. Even the shoes weren’t safe. Never mind the embroidered hibiscuses, they also had brightly colored heels of crocodile. Those same flowers were also embroidered on a python jacket, beaded on a biker jacket, and printed trailing up the legs of white jeans. They were so exuberantly, almost vulgarly, lush as to raise a smile. (Giannini did, after all, say that her definition of the collection was "happiness.")

She offered her Tropicana club kids jeans in dégradé shades of sunset or printed with palm fronds; shirts decorated with toucans and parrots; perforated-leather safari shorts…The guy in the parka and striped jeans, fresh off his Vespa, looked almost out of place. He was from Giannini’s old world. Now she has geographically relocated to a fantasyland of rich hippie/gypsy chic. Although the relative restraint of black-and-white jacquard tuxes with their tone-on-tone embroidery harked back to earlier collections when Frida was finding her way, the huge amethyst-and-malachite belt buckles she showed them with were definitely picking up signals from Planet MGMT.

— Tim Blanks

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