米蘭时装周 2009春夏男裝－Dsquared

棒球帽、低腰短褲、沙灘浴巾，事實上，Dsquared²男人只要這三個元素就可以帥氣地度過一個夏天。當然，先決條件是你得有結實的好身材，和許多悠閒的時光。Dean和Dan這兩位Caten兄弟雙胞胎設計師天生優異的衝突混搭功力，把正式禮服西裝上身搭配短褲、球鞋的風格，接連好多季帶上伸展台，現在也吹往米蘭街頭甚至延燒到日本東京與美國西岸。全球氣候日漸炎熱的此刻，這或許是保持經典魅力和舒適俐落的最佳解決方案！

這季時裝在敲打節奏和韻律吟誦的音樂中展開，靈感的起點看似在義大利的小理髮店，但又更像他們在多倫多的故鄉，某個男孩們成長階段中總會去過的夜總會（請看看那些鑲邊領的西裝…）好吧，或許是網球俱樂部或高爾夫俱樂部。總之，脫掉繁文縟節的襯衫領帶，他們總會在午後來到海邊，原始的、狂放的運動裝束，剪裁絕非寬鬆，而是以更為收腰貼近結實曲線的態度來設計。或許你已經習慣了Dsquared²的風格覺得這部過又是上季的重新調色，可是，這就是Dsquared²所膜拜追捧的矛盾靈魂。

June 24, 2008

Dean and Dan Caten don’t miss a trick when they’re putting together a show. Back in the Days, Jamel Shabazz’s photographic history of hip-hop, was a starting point, which meant that a barbershop (practically a Harlem community center) was a logical backdrop. And the break-dancers made the point stronger. The Italian fashion industry has all of a sudden turned diversity into a cause—as you may have heard, the new issue of Vogue Italia is cover-to-cover black models—and the Caten twins extended the idea onto their catwalk. They did it not just with the models but also with the sounds and the styles they offered. Anyone who remembers the bad old days in the Catens' hometown of Toronto was transported straight back to the Twilight Zone, a seminal nightspot in the boys’ Personal Growth.

The show itself was a very smart re-appropriation of a re-appropriation. The original hip-hoppers sucked up the style of the tennis club and the golf club (Sergio Tacchini, anyone?), and Dean and Dan spat it back out, polo shirts, gym shorts, argyle socks, gold chains, Run DMC’s Cazals and all. And every detail was exact, down to the original fit. It was an extraordinary feat of fashion archaeology, but it wasn’t an arid exercise at all. (How could it be with Ralphie Rosario and Joyce Sims on the soundtrack?) That’s because the precision of the original wild style gelled so neatly with the Catens’ own knack for detail. Trackie stripes on a white suit made for a new evening look. A three-piece denim suit looked sharp. So did a safari shorts suit. And maybe it was the context, but the tailored-jacket-collar-and-tie-with-the-sporty-lower-half thing that the Catens have worked for eons looked fresh again.

— Tim Blanks

[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]  ... 下一页  >>