米蘭时装周 2009春夏男裝－D&G

從上季秋冬的高地山居，D&G在春夏回到了熟悉的海邊，沙灘、熱浪、古銅色肌肉的漂亮男女…構成了本季D&G的風格背景（也是向來你所熟悉的那種），因此，英挺的海軍就不會在這裡缺席。但如果你以為這又將是一個泳褲系列或衝浪裝備，那就完全誤會D&G在這個夏天扮演的角色了，這季的D&G男人是「休假期間的海軍軍官」或「濱海渡假俱樂部的高級會員」，而不是毛都沒長齊的小夥子。


正裝西服上閃閃發亮的質感，看得出織品顯然是絲綢斜紋布、絲綢棉花混紡的光澤，讓雞尾酒會上，D&G男人總顯得特別的時髦亮眼。在瑪丹娜的《4 Minutes》配樂節奏中，氣氛逐漸輕鬆起來。從原本深藍、灰、白的本季基本色調中，開始出現纜繩圖案、粉紅色、香檳色…等浪漫的視覺。設計師Stefano Gabbana和Domenico Dolce透過穿著海軍風格Speedo泳褲的性感男模，和深V領馬球服的貴公子，把D&G男人從他們爸爸的遊艇會員那一掛中解救出來，成立了自己的時尚俱樂部。

June 24, 2008

After last season's Highland fling, Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce returned to sea level with a spring D&G collection inspired by the French Riviera. They didn't have any old beach bum in mind, though, rather a twenty-first-century version of Cary Grant in To Catch a Thief. The Grant élan could be felt in the tailoring—shawl-collared or peak-lapel suits in various combinations of navy and white—and in the polka dot neckerchiefs that were tied loosely under the jackets. The twenty-first-century part came in via the sheen of the fabrics—silk twill, silk cotton, silk jersey, silk everything, basically. The D&G version of an espadrille, meanwhile, had a rope sole but jettisoned canvas for patent crocodile. The best looks here—say, a shawl-collar jacket worn over a shirt in a contrasting stripe and pajama-style pants with a drawstring waist—had the ease and freshness that distinguished the Dolce & Gabbana show a few days earlier.

The designers' pursuit of the navy-and-white motif turned as relentless as the Timbaland remix of Madonna's "4 Minutes" that played on the soundtrack. When they did change things up, it was with the too-literal nautical flag prints that introduced a splash of red. These read as much Nantucket as Nice, though the model in the navy Speedo and deep-V polo soon reminded the audience that, for all his newfound sophistication, the D&G man has no intention of joining Daddy's yacht club. If this collection wasn't as jam-packed with hits as Fall's, it still bobbed along with likeable energy from beginning to end.

— Dirk Standen

[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]  ... 下一页  >>