米蘭时装周 2009春夏男裝－Prada

品牌設計總監Miuccia Prada以嬌貴脆弱和型男氣概為主軸，混融出09春夏的嶄新男裝風格，泰然自若的無邪態度以及出世不恭的疏離氣質，讓Prada的男生渾身滿是捉模不清的神韻步伐；當然，我們習慣的品牌俐落氛圍也絲毫不意外的鮮明出色；即便大膽的設計概念是如此這般極端嘩人。

率先登場的長版連帽外套在束收腰線的高腰剪裁中，肩脥骨與肩膀處的繫帶是唯一目光焦點；相信大家對於奧地利前衛設計師Helmut Lang的慣常風格尚記憶猶新，無所不在的繫帶綑綁造就了Helmut Lang經典的極簡潮流；當然Lang走的是前衛超現實路線折衷，混合在Prada身上，於是成為現實主義的實用風格，仿似畫框人像般造型的項頸間抽繩線條，儼然就是Miuccia眼中的新時代男孩模樣；當然，似乎這些解構極簡元素都早已是某些設計師的經典材料像是：Helmut Lang的帶飾綑梆的、Margiela的重製反轉設計手法，但是很顯然，它們的非主流色彩並未替這些新世代風格帶來迴響與注目。今天很可能讓這些設計樣貌躍上主流市場的是Miuccia Prada；另外，修長合身的純棉馬球t-shirt、蓋過下身boxer shorts超長的剪裁、除了是家中發生火災般匆促逃出的”性感”裝扮、也更像私人貴族療養院病人在後花園遊蕩的模樣，那股米白襯搭純白的視覺呈現著，相當矛盾程度的祥和與絕望。

不過，概念是如此，實穿的單品依舊是品牌強項像是：剪裁合身完美的及踝長褲、寬鬆針織上衫、細緻的純棉T恤等、都極盡易搭且時尚的功能；不過，兩三套點綴現身的金色乳膠質地風衣外套卻絲毫不意外成為另一季節焦點，若襯搭著纖細身形，那應該就是未來春夏的最搶眼摩登造型瞜。

June 22, 2008

Post-show, Miuccia Prada cited her inspiration as a man poised between fragility and power, hanging in the balance—in other words, between extremes. As usual, her enigmatic comment cast an illuminating light on the collection we’d just seen. The first outfits out were a parka and blouson hanging off the models' shoulders on straps. Once upon a time, Helmut Lang offered up the same idea, but where his version suggested fierce refugee pragmatism (you have to be ready to carry your world on your back), Miuccia's made a nice portrait neckline for her new batch of boychicks. But at the same time, there was a hint of tension—suspension—in the idea. And it was extended in subtle details like the elastic bands that wrapped shoes or encircled waists.

You could parse Prada collections till hell froze over, so loaded with suggestion are they. That button "buried" in a double-breasted jacket? True, Margiela already explored the idea of the phantom garment, but it doesn't make it any less seductive. And the elongated polo layered over cotton smock layered over boxer shorts? It evoked emergency-room or sanitarium whites—what better way to convey the subtext of men in crisis? But step back from obsessive fandom and there were irresistible basics, like a gussied-up Gap: perfectly tailored pants, fine knits, cotton shirts, top-stitched denims. All this and a gold latex coat: As the mannequin moved, it trembled, poised indeed between fragility and power.

— Tim Blanks

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