米蘭时装周 2009春夏男裝－Jil Sander

無論是Jil Sander、Prada到今天Raf Simons時期的Jil Sander，幾乎都不會有人反對，明快涼爽的季節氣氛，加上這世紀對未來感的迷戀，使得Jil Sander持續都是春夏男裝週的焦點品牌。不過，從時裝伸展台來看衣服很容易，比創意、論色彩…只要有想法、有態度、夠前衛就能躋身高級時裝殿堂。從銷售數字看待這件事情，就沒那麼簡單了。這也是Raf Simons面對這個「前衛過了頭」的品牌，目前最感棘手的問題：買家在哪裡？

這季深具海軍風格的鉛白色Jil Sander極簡依舊，但態度卻不再冷酷（至少不會讓你有關於什麼納粹或禁慾的聯想了），從發表會上的電影配樂、模特兒的臉蛋和髮型來看，都更加富有溫和的美感，讓人感到似乎有什麼生動的靈魂，在那俐落的拼接與剪裁中游走。至於品牌的忠實信徒也沒有被遺棄，像那些拉鍊構成的三角形、正方形和圓圈…「服裝的幾何學精確度可以重新建構身體」畢竟這個論調還是品牌的設計母題。

June 21, 2008

The disconnect between the runway and reality is the most challenging feature of a fashion designer's job. Most of the time, you can deal with it by being swept up in the aesthetic moment, the carefully chosen soundtrack, the models, their hair and makeup—the aggregate of one's intent. But Raf Simons capsized this easy option with his latest collection for Jil Sander. It was serene, beautiful, enchanting…but I couldn’t picture a soul in the clothes. The exquisite precision of the collection felt entirely cerebral, which was paradoxical, given that the fabrics were color-blocked in such a way that a band of jersey, say, would draw a jacket close to the body. A short-sleeved jacket in stretch cotton also defined the torso. Zippers and elastication were used to trim the silhouette, again emphasizing the body. (The ring pulls on the zippers were triangles, squares, and circles, underlining the geometric precision of the clothes.)

How could so much attention to the human form seem so…abstract? Maybe the answer lay in a safari jacket, short-sleeved in suede. Again, exquisite, but perhaps too pure for this world, like the little fluffy clouds the Orb was making music about in the background. Such is the nonpareil niche that Simons has carved for himself. (Base curiosity wonders whether the circular pattern on the shirts was derived from the portholes of the Maritime, Raf’s hotel of choice in New York.)

— Tim Blanks

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