米蘭时装周 2009春夏男裝－Emporio Armani

Emporio Armani

向來對運動時尚化不遺餘力的Giorgio Armani老先生，發展了EA7系列也不能滿足他對運動風的熱愛，除了同名品牌的西裝永遠是頂尖男人的首選之外，副牌Emporio Armani的時尚感甚至更有凌駕於上的趨勢（如果要比性感那就更不用說了，應該沒有人能忘記貝克漢最近這些被熱烈討論「究竟該不該這麼大包」的內褲照吧…），所以我們甚至可以直截了當的說，平常下班後去健身房拉胸肌，然後週末安排衝浪、攀岩等活動，就是EA男人的生活精髓。至於他鍛練自己是為了健康還是健美？是為了取悅自己還是給誰欣賞？簡直就是多餘的問題。

這季的春夏男裝設計重點在於合身收縮的背心，和新楦頭輪廓的正裝鞋，方格花布（有點像是你睡覺時會穿的）皺紗短褲，以及似乎是在向Chanel致敬的抽鬚斜紋軟呢……種種精采的元素除了用來證明大師寶刀未老，也似乎在傳達著在Emporio Armani的時裝世界中，服裝的風格逐漸要被身材和氣質掩蓋。且看秀上男模的塊壘肌肉，上面被烙印了Armani老鷹商標像是紋身，更像是直接昭示著「健美的身體曲線」才是他的時尚輪廓線。

June 22, 2008

Giorgio Armani's growing appetite for eccentricity knows few bounds as he charges on through life. His Emporio collection offers him a wide platform to indulge it, if only because it's more relaxed than his signature line—he gets to mix things up a little more. Here, there were shoes that looked like spats next to cowl-necked waistcoats that closed diagonally (Bugsy Malone meets A Flock of Seagulls), or a mandarin-collared top sharing catwalk space with wide-cuffed ciré shorts, or crinkled ginghams and harem pants. Armani even offered an homage to Chanel in unstructured cotton tweeds. The models had spiked, blonded hair; some of them were branded with the Armani eagle logo. The somewhat pell-mell nature of the proceedings suggested the polyglot society depicted in Blade Runner, a replicant culture where bits and pieces of the past and present are boiled together to make the future. One could almost wish that Armani would push the notion even further and produce an entirely post-apocalyptic collection. The kite surfers that marched down the catwalk at show's end were much too polite.

— Tim Blanks

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