米蘭时装周 2009春夏男裝－Dolce & Gabbana

在秀展開始前的後台，設計師之ㄧStefano Gabbana對媒體解釋著最新作品的主要題目：「pajama」，雖然似乎有許多不同主題穿插在整場演出中，但Stefano還是認為「睡衣」是唯一重點。我們可以看到兩位設計師是如此精細縝密，於強調服裝細部的處理，細膩的將正式與休閒風格混融一體，建構貢獻著屬於21世紀的男裝趨勢。

舒適悠閒是DG的發想概念、清爽的天空藍直條紋西裝更是品牌始終以來的設計強項：勾掛在胸前的細版長巾、腰帶部份以抽繩或鬆緊帶表現閒適感、以及足踝處的反摺褲腳等；而絲質丹寧布料的tuxedo則更帶出讓人驚艷的感受：一樣窄版領帶與圍巾下搭條紋抽繩短褲與休閒便鞋，如此反傳統的突兀造型卻是如此充滿不協調美感的時髦！當然從開場首套西裝、沒有襯衫內搭只剩下細長領巾，便可略見端倪。

同時，與男仕同款圖案的女性睡袍衣衫也點綴的在這群精壯迷人的男模中：Naomi Campbell一襲日式和服風格罩袍與抽繩boxer下搭平底芭蕾舞鞋樣式便鞋，營造出無遠弗屆的完全性感；要特別注意的是，這一系列東方花鳥蟲魚圖案的休閒單品可是相當精緻的手工印染，也同時挑戰著你的乾洗衣店師傅的專業功力。順道一提，那套印有手槍圖樣的套頭毛衣相當讓人疑惑，畢竟來說” Gun culture”是一百趴先的不時尚喔。

June 21, 2008

Backstage before the show, Stefano Gabbana explained that the catwalk would be emphasizing a pajama theme, though there would be a multitude of other options available back in the showroom. Understandable that he felt such a clarification might be necessary—would the Dolce man who was so well-served by last season’s studly chunk be ready for bed? In the end, Gabbana's doubt was needless. What he and Domenico Dolce managed to serve up was the most sophisticated version yet of the casual/formal hybrid that is the 21st century's contribution to menswear. And the pajama theme underscored Dolce & Gabbana's new mantra: comfort. Picture a pinstripe suit (foundation stone of the Dolce empire) with the jacket shawl-collared yet the trousers drawstrung, elastic of waist, and rolled of ankle. Such forgiving elegance! A silk denim tuxedo was another way to make the same point. (A collar and tie accompanying drawstring shorts—a bathing suit by any other name—were a bridge too far. But the wingtip mules? How could something so wrong be so right?)

The pajama-striped, shawl-collared suit that opened the show comfortably established the manifesto: no shirt, just a scarf. Even given the exaggeration one allows the catwalk, Dolce and Gabbana were clearly onto something. Chic-but-comfy is the grail of enough guys that the combination of tailoring and trackies should spell ka-ching. And it’s not just guys—Naomi Campbell looked gorgeously natural in the grand finale of Orientalia in her flowing kimono, shorts, and ballet flats. BTW, each of those closing outfits was arduously hand-inked: There’s a new challenge for your dry cleaner. But what exactly was the assassin’s pistol that appeared on a sweater meant to convey? Gun culture in any guise is unfashionable.

— Tim Blanks

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