米蘭时装周 2009春夏男裝－Costume National

設計師Ennio Capasa在這季的Costume National春夏男裝中，展示了36個極富未來感的樣貌。如同時尚圈眾所周知的，他曾在1990年代時發起一次可與1980年代的Giorgio Armani相媲美的時裝革命。儘管是從女裝起步，但他改變了視覺和意義的關連性。也就是說，他成功的運用鮮明輪廓來展現複雜、現實和性感。「男人有時候的確很矛盾，想表現成功者的姿態，卻也想傳達慵懶性感的個性。」Ennio Capasa當年的定義如此。並不只在一次專訪中表示：「Costume National男裝的風格不是固定的，但是有些元素會始終存在系列中，像是良好的剪裁、再混搭一些搖滾和街頭態度。」

今年剛好是Costume National品牌的22周年，如果放眼22世紀，他確定人們仍舊關心的問題會是環保。因此，他做了一個了不起的工作，那就是用看似被回收的織品（像竹子或鋁罐質感的特殊絲綢），精緻的剪裁成涼爽的夏裝。他想強調一個現代人在全球變暖的同時，如何以行動來證明自己的存在價值。不過，說實在從這季有點單調沉悶的作品看來，Capasa的心意似忽無法在快速時尚的今日，在提出環保看法的同時，也吸引男人買單。

June 21, 2008

Thirty-six ideas for the future: The name that Ennio Capasa gave his collection was timely to a fault. At a moment when the world is poised for major change, it would be uplifting to think that a fashion collection might offer additional pointers. But when the actual show started, the uplift quickly turned downward. Nothing ultimately wrong with that—Capasa was operating perfectly efficiently within his own frame of reference. Sustainability was one of the points he wanted to make, and he did a great job with recycled fabrics (particularly a silk bamboo and a sheer aluminum). He also wanted to underscore the fact that a modern man would rank global warming alongside looking hot. So he conflated activism and eroticism by layering sheer shirts and outerwear in that recycled aluminum. But Capasa’s heart belongs so completely to the dark glamour of his formative years that he just can’t help himself when it comes to a sequined lapel or shirt placket. The silvery palette of this collection suggested there is now a little moonlight in his night, but I’m still waiting for at least another 32 ideas.

— Tim Blanks

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