米蘭时装周 2009春夏男裝－Burberry Prorsum

接手品牌以來從未表現失誤的Christopher Bailey的新作品，是來自英國名導兼藝術家Derek Jarman，Bailey想像著賈曼位於英國海邊Dungeness地區的美麗花園，於是模特兒們佩戴著Jarman酷愛的巴拿馬低沿草帽、陰冷海邊的雨滴和泥漿噴灑圖案印染在襯衫上、以及大量的苔蘚色/石灰色/泥炭色與白臘等低調沉鬱色系壟罩在作品展中。

無限蔓延的憂鬱傷感氛圍儼然成為新作發表會的表演主軸，Bailey今次更加強調出纖細削瘦美型男孩的蒼白與柔美，設計師運用細長版型的領巾垂墜在低領T衫前，呈現在眼前的是男孩的裸露鎖骨，這似乎預告了男性新性感帶的來臨（當然也是Derek Jarman電影中的男孩模樣）。

羊毛質材的t-shirt以及縷空勾花的襯衫、柔軟垂皺的長外套、細管長褲，這些讓人印象深刻的柔媚單品被Bailey統稱為“Crumpled Classics”；低調的中性氣質無疑是Christopher Bailey所賦予Bruberry的新世紀意涵，憂鬱哀愁的慘綠男孩絕對是非主流時髦人士所致力追求的搶眼形象

June 21, 2008

Christopher Bailey makes such perfect sense of his work for Burberry that all anyone could ever wish for would be his voice in your ear while you watch his shows. For his latest collection, he imagined the late artist/filmmaker Derek Jarman in his garden at Dungeness, a hardscrabble stretch of English seaside perched next to a nuclear reactor. So there was a floppy Panama hat like Jarman’s, prints that looked like raindrops or mud splotches, and a dour color palette that ran a gamut of moss, stone, peat, bark, and pewter.

But more than anything, there was an air of melancholy; Bailey understands that there is sensuality in sadness. So the droop of his scoop-neck tops managed to bare the clavicle as a new erogenous zone (don’t try this one at home—the pigeon chest is a bequest of English genetics). He insisted that the collection was actually all about outerwear—trenches, coats, jackets—which is why he wanted to let the air in to the skin below. That must have been why, bare flesh aside, there were also wool gauze tees and shirts in a washed-out broderie anglaise. Bailey called his collection “Crumpled Classics,” which accounted for the vintage flavor of many of the clothes. It’s a lovely idea, pieces that have already acquired a life through being worn and loved. But it’s also sad, much like the richness of nature surviving in the sobering shadow of the Bomb.

— Tim Blanks

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