纽约时装周 2008秋冬男装－Tony Melillo

「我的我的時尚品味跟別人與眾不同，我偏愛那種不起眼，無法在第一時間引起慾望，卻愈看愈經典的東西。」設計師Tony Melillo援用引述了紅於七零年代的艾美獎喜劇女王Gilda Radner的名言錦句，不過…很快我們就發現，這份聲明跟他展示的作品一點也不相關。然後他繼續矯情的說道：「我喜歡柔軟並且不那麼嚴肅的調調，自然一點，所以這季我要呈現的，可不是那種驕傲炫燿說『你來看我啊』的那種風格。」他以為在時尚圈說這種掏心挖肺的話，會被眾人爆以熱烈掌聲。不過講真的，你如果想要推出一個平鋪直敘般的樸素作品，然後當作你的個人系列來發表，不會有人攔住你，但也不會有人關心你、報導你。簡單來說，這個秋冬男裝系列的確沒有什麼特殊精采之處，有的盡是傳統男裝單品的層疊混搭。

怎麼搭配呢？粗花呢燈芯絨面料的外套罩著黑色西裝，皮革短夾克裡面是更長的夾克，還有五顆釦的多功能外套…嗯全都是混紡喀什米爾的斜裁燈芯絨。我想大家都知道Melillo曾經是個時尚編輯，所以他本能直覺地知道要創造一些細節以供媒體報導炒作。包括露指手套、 工作長靴、魔鬼氈黏的時髦皮帶…等花招，盡顯了設計師的實用功利主義。Melillo說他偏愛走所謂的東方主義異國民族路線，但又不是邋遢的頹廢風格。看那幾款彩色圍巾，這系列服裝的確傳達了一點點這種風格。除了彈性尼龍中間收束的緊身長褲…噢那真的很沒品味，請各位GQ網友切莫嘗試。事實上，看看衣服上粉筆般的白線條和刮膨羊毛等細節。再再證明了，其實Melillo骨子裡還是有那種「大家快來看看我」的炫耀血液！

February 8, 2008

"I base my fashion taste on what doesn't itch." Tony Melillo was actually quoting Gilda Radner, but the sentiment was clearly his as well. "Soft and not so serious," he continued. "It's not look-at-me fashion." Truer words were seldom spoken on Seventh Ave., which highlighted the bind in which Melillo finds himself. A "show" exists to be looked at, so it's not the best way to appreciate clothes that—superficially, at least—are so plain. Much better is an up-close-and-personal scrutiny, preferably with the designer on hand to articulate the philosophy that informs his work. That said, Melillo did offer his own take on the layering that has dominated the season. He put a tweed blouson over a suit in black needle cord, and a leather bomber over a longer, five-button utility jacket, also in cord. Knits were lean, light-gauge cashmeres, also layered. Melillo's background is in editing, so he has an instinct for keeping detailing to a bare minimum. Mitts, work boots, and felted belts underscored the utilitarian edge of the clothes, though he himself was more partial to the descriptive "Eastern bloc-ish…but not drab!" Still, the clothes made most sense (except for nylon elastic-waist pants, which made no sense at all) when you could actually feel them, or see how much work had gone into the interiors of the jackets, for instance. And a chalk-striped wool puffer showpiece suggested that Melillo may have a look-at-me bone in his body after all.

— Tim Blanks

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