巴黎时装周 2008秋冬男装－Raf Simons

在Helmut Lang、Hedi Slimane這兩位改變了今日男性服裝面貌的設計師相繼退出後，Raf Simons一手挑起革新男裝的重任。本季巴黎和米蘭成就最高的系列均出自他之手，一個是JilSander，另一個就是他的Raf Simons個人系列，“傳統即是摩登，常態即是前衛”是Raf Simons本季的設計哲學，也是貫穿整個時裝季的最高綱領。

憂鬱症的患者，即將因為Raf Simons的這場秀而獲得新生，自然的大地色系"Earthy"是貫穿整場展演的主要色彩符碼，Raf Simons此次一改先前年輕化的風格，也逐漸有正裝化趨勢，上個系列的輕便登山裝以灰色和駝色為主、緊貼身體的羊毛套頭衫和外套取代。廉價的黃麻被塑造成無接縫設計、呈現輕微喇叭型的tunic上衣，領口的處理也都有了極大的變化。

作為激瘦美學的始作俑者，Raf Simons的男裝不再是一味的短小和貼身，而是通過恰到好處的剪裁表現軀幹和手臂的線條，唯有長褲依舊纖細服帖如leggings。同Sander一樣，Raf Simons的調色盤直接取自大自然，地下岩層的過渡色被生動地表現在羊毛與法蘭絨的混合織物上。

非常殘酷但真實的，每個人只有年輕一次的機會，無論你是選擇兼容並蓄的經典特質，亦或是天馬行空的獨特創意，多變豐富的穿衣態度絕對能夠讓你擁有難以取代的獨特地位。

January 19, 2008

The DJs at fashion shows are usually early adopters of the Next Big Thing, so keen ears have spent the season waiting for a burst of Burial. Raf Simons and his sound man Michel Gaubert saved it for (almost) last—when it actually meant the most—as the soundtrack for the designer’s signature exaltation of the urgency of youth. Post-show, Simons talked about focusing on the moment in a young man’s life when he’s beginning to define himself. Hence, the show’s emphasis on the body, in tops as wrapped and seamed as Alaïa’s (or The Mummy’s). But as he closes in on 40, Simons' absorption in the turbulent emotions of men almost two generations younger inevitably acquires an elegiac tinge—the music of Burial is scarcely a glass-half-full proposition, to put it mildly.

That melancholic note was where the show came alive, because it offered Simons an opportunity to get roots-y. "Earthy" was actually the word he used. It applied to jackets made from jute to the slubbed texture of wool suits to a woven pattern that looked like soil strata, and to a carroty orange that accented somber tones of gray. The same intense shade was incorporated into another jacket that toned upward from ashen gray hem to fiery shoulder (the buttons changing color, too), like a phoenix from the flames. An ingenious sartorial metaphor for reinvention ("or eternal damnation," joked Simons’ right-hand man Robbie Snelders).

Other states of mind were suggested by one jacket with fabric bunched and creased around its waist, another with a funnel-neck wired shut, or a sweater that looked like a Mark Rothko painting (well, there’s a state of mind right there). The shoes, on the other hand, anchored the models to the ground in the earthiest way. As thick-soled as a creeper, they came croc-stamped or webbed and ready to kick out the jams. "You’re only young once," they said. Sad, but true.

— Tim Blanks

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