巴黎时装周 2008秋冬男装－Paul Smith

Paul Smith 在2008秋冬以一種回歸英式傳統風格，讓男性穿上英式優雅懷舊的時尚感。在講究英式傳統細膩縫製技巧，融入富現代感的設計風格，著重穿著剪裁上的實用性，適時的將幽默與智慧結合於設計之中，Paul Smith以他一貫的輕鬆悠閒的態度來呈現，軟化了不少套裝予人的古板印象。
打破刻版印象，正式而精緻的西裝是本季Paul Smith男裝的焦點。除了在傳統西服上作文章，色彩的選擇也非常讓人驚歎，每套西服的配件都會選擇不同的亮色，讓人感到整個男裝系列的活潑及多元，不論是輕鬆歪斜的領帶、繽紛色彩的襪子、腰帶、絲巾、鞋等等，將繁複與簡單、繁複與繁複相互運用搭配，呈現出一種視覺衝突的不協調美感，三件式西裝也打破了以往的同色系傳統，灰色、黑色和格紋、條紋任意搭配顯得十分醒目突出；揮灑出典雅氣度的紳士風範卻也釋放出現代摩登的時尚氛圍。　

仔細回想設計師Paul Smith的過去與現在，若沒有細直紋、蘇格蘭紋、碎格花與燈芯絨這些傳統英式優雅符號意涵的存在，何來這一季極具智慧的新式趣味顛覆與創意融合？

January 20, 2008

The time frame for the looks that Paul Smith showed in his latest collection was clearly significant. "My era," he blithely called out as he dashed past backstage, but what exactly was that? His wife Pauline certainly had no clue. She met him in 1967. i-D editor Terry Jones had a feeling it was sometime pre-mod, when British groovers listened to blues and took their style cues from the classic menswear codes. Glen plaid, tattersall, windowpane and Prince of Wales checks, pinstripes—they were all here. But time—and fabric technology—has moved on, so the fabrics had a lightness and patina that can only be achieved with washing. In the end, however, the collection's underlying theme seemed to be less pre-mod than "How many ways can you serve up a black suit?" Every possible length and trim and arrangement of buttonholes seemed to present itself, so one fell on the eccentric accents (which are, after all, the essence of Sir Paul's success). A zebra belt, a fistful of be-ringed fingers, a leopard-print boot—in this context, they practically blazed. And a gray flannel officer's coat and a croc-stamped leather frock coat felt like preludes to a whole new direction.

— Tim Blanks

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