巴黎时装周 2008秋冬男装－Hermès

西裝、領帶與襯衫，在這次Hermes的秋冬秀之中，顯然地男性們終於可以擺脫這種傳統守舊的模式。Cashmere毛衣或是絲質的V領毛衣搭配條紋的西上裝，或是針織毛衣與鱷魚皮外套的搭配，整體相當的簡潔，但全部都是最好的材質與做工，相當精緻。對於Hermes的顧客來說，他們其實也正在改變（正如本次秀的背景板一般，宛如正在施工的模樣），雖然仍舊優雅，但許多領巾的運用，使得整場秀變的年輕，不過Hermes一貫的奢華質感仍然不變，最典型的是鱷魚皮、天鵝絨材質的使用，十分出色。

有趣的是，Hermes試著挑戰傳統，當然身為消費者也相當樂見這種改變，比如棕色條紋夾克搭配炭灰色的條紋長褲，下面還精心搭配了雙cashmere材質的襪子，而這種組合雖然有點不協調，就像一個帽子搭配灰色法蘭絨西裝般，但或許只能怪造型師吧。但另一方面，Hermes男裝設計師Véronique Nichanian確信這種新鮮的搭配方式，而她也嘗試打破奢華與休閒的嚴格定義，就像在這次秀上所見到的海軍藍鱷魚皮外套般，即是最佳例證。

January 19, 2008

Well, one thing was immediately obvious. Hermès Man wasn’t really feeling button-down shirts anymore. He preferred a cashmere or silk V-neck under his pinstripe blazer, or cabled knit, or croc blouson. Which suggested, in its own subtly streamlined way, that the tradition-loving Hermès customer is in the process of changing (a point echoed by the show’s “under-construction” backdrop). He clearly wasn’t ready to shed the elegance, however—that much was obvious from his cravats, even if they were riotously colored. Or, for that matter, the luxury (typified by a croc hoodie, for God’s sake, never mind the velvet mink coat).

But Hermès Man was toying with his classics, happy to combine a brown pinstripe jacket with charcoal pinstripe pants, or pair thick workmanlike cashmere socks with his oxfords. This combination was as incongruous as the bobble hat with the gray flannel suit, and we should probably blame the stylist. But, on the other hand, it was such touches that underscored designer Véronique Nichanian’s confident new looseness. She’s brokered a successful marriage of casual and luxe—now who’s up for a peacoat in navy croc?

— Tim Blanks

[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]  ... 下一页  >>