巴黎时装周 2008秋冬男装－Emanuel Ungaro

對於法國老牌Ungaro來說，這一次他們選在Westin Hotel舉辦秋冬時裝秀，狹小卻氣派豪華的會場擠滿了來自全球的媒體，對於男裝設計總監來說Franck Boclet應該是個不小的光榮，而且Emanuel Ungaro的秀場中來了不少貴客，比如Clovis Cornillac（法國的羅素克洛）、M. Pokora（法國的J.T.）等。

在這場秀中，似乎有一點Gaultier的影子，Franck Boclet運用了吉普賽流浪者的概念（連秀場音樂都是Time of Gypsies的原聲帶），簡單的外套、寬版長褲或是打褶的長褲等，對比的是常禮服，不過腰際繫上的絲質帶子宛如像個鬥牛士般帥氣。另一方面，Gaultier男裝影子的就是模特兒們的煙熏妝與山羊鬍造型（而這種造型有點怪異，尤其對沒有鬍子的法國模特兒Vincent Lacrocq來說，刻意的化妝，反倒顯得突兀）。此外，多扣環的腰封以及褲子配上襯衫，看似有點衝突的對比，但似乎這樣的穿搭仍然無法博得多數男人的興趣。

January 19, 2008

Someone's press team just earned their New Year’s bonus. The turnout for Franck Boclet’s debut show as menswear director for Emanuel Ungaro included both Clovis Cornillac (the French Russell Crowe) and M. Pokora (the French J.T.), which was enough to drive the local paps into overdrive. Such a shame that the stars weren’t treated to a wardrobe-changing revelation.

In a presentation that might best be described as Gaultier-lite, Boclet, late of Francesco Smalto, offered up a raffish array of gypsy rovers (the music was actually the soundtrack of Time of the Gypsies) in neat little jackets and baggy, pleated trousers, or, by way of contrast, cutaway ensembles that were toreador-tight. Echoes of Gaultier’s homme fatal were evident in the models’ dark-rimmed eyes and their cosmetic goatees. (This latter touch was slightly misjudged when it appeared as a fake beard stuck on young Frenchman Vincent Lacrocq’s chin.) Such obvious artifice was the flaw at the heart of the entire collection, as evident in the multi-buckled waistband on a pair of trousers, and in rope-tied pinstripe pants paired with a poet shirt. And it seemed a trifle optimistic to be promoting an astrakhan carryall, among other accessory items, when Ungaro’s menswear has yet to ring a guy’s bell.

— Tim Blanks

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