米兰时装周 2008秋冬男装－Dsquared

London Calling！本季秋冬Dsquared號召英倫大軍壓境。所有人都記得在1970年代時的英國，跟龐克族一樣令人聞風喪膽的光頭黨（skinhead），他們橫行街頭、到處砸店，幾乎只要被看不順眼的路人都會遭殃，而重點是，他們看誰都不順眼。當這些無賴混混、滑頭小子的痞模樣，再加件背心、套件羽絨外套，就成了滑雪小子（skihead），而這個衝突打扮，從倫敦大街攀往瑞士滑雪聖地聖莫里次（St. Moritz）山巔，融合叛逆頹廢與貴族旅遊，就是新一季的Dsquared秋冬男裝系列。令所有人眼睛一亮、擊掌叫好的飆速創意，其實還是這對Caten雙胞胎的慣常伎倆，把看似對立的元素，用上下身、主從色來統一成全新命題。

或許黑色粗針織毛衣與手染丹寧低腰吊帶褲的搭配，讓人對他們向來極佳的搭配品味有點摸不著頭緒，但再往下看到那雙略尖楦頭的漆亮皮靴，就讓這造型立刻登身時髦。而海軍藍色羊毛西上裝、白襯衫、紅色蘇格蘭格紋開襟背心、黑色窄版領帶，搭配超低腰牛仔褲與鉚釘黑皮帶，這種造型與搭配手法，對熱愛Dsquared品牌的人來說，一點都不陌生，不過同樣的，再往下看，那雙絨毛翻裡的登山軍靴，立刻讓整體造型帥氣數倍。所謂以小博大，Dsquared恐怕已經完全摸透時尚圈in與out遊戲法則，簡單的一個特色單品，就足以讓整個look不同凡響。

或許有人不懂，為什麼Dsquared能夠超脫男裝兩大教義派的對抗賽，讓喜愛經典紳士風格，與年輕街頭態度的兩種男性族類同時擁抱？答案就出現在「拆解」的過程中，你不難發現，有些設計師端出的創意主題乍看有趣，但實穿性不高。可是Dsquared男裝，尤其在秋冬季節，每個拆開的單品，都充滿著令人喜愛的細節，能夠三片裁縫更顯修身的背心，Dsquared絕對不會用兩片布來交差了事。那麼怎麼分辨這是當季新品就需要時尚專家的細膩眼光，像本季獨特的迷彩圖案和鵝黃、甜橙新色，都能保證你在秋冬人群中格外耀眼。

January 15, 2008

If you took the word "skinhead" and lost a letter, you'd get "skihead." You'd also get Dsquared's new collection, born somewhere between the mean streets of London and the ski slopes of St. Moritz. Few designers understand the theatrical value of such a culture clash as well as the Caten twins. Against an ingenious set (a wintry Boystown with fire escapes, a tavern, and a blistering snowstorm), they staged a march-past of ski bums and ska boys: a red turtleneck with a racing stripe paired with yellow nylon pants vs a tight little black suit that was sheer Madness (the Nutty Boys' "One Step Beyond" was blaring at this particular point).

Such a reconciliation of extreme sportswear and extreme tailoring has become Dean and Dan's signature. And with nothing left to prove in that department, they've calmed down—appliqués that would once have screeched a bent double entendre now declaim a more decorous "Dear Devils." But one thing that will never change is the Catens' eye for detail. The bleached denims, fitted little white shirts, and suspenders and boots were sheer skinhead (brazen brewskis, ciggies, and unsightly Winehouse tattoos were gilding on the lily). Likewise, at the other end of the "sportswear" spectrum, the ski jacket, snow boots, and sweater intarsia-ed with ski poles.

But despite the extravagance of the presentation, this show felt less camp than usual, perhaps because the Catens now offer so many reasons to be taken seriously. A down-filled black fur jacket, a gray flannel duffel, and a coat with articulated sleeves that artfully enhanced movement were all indications of their skill. And if fashion ever fails them, they could always turn to Broadway. Their showmanship would run and run.

— Tim Blanks

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