米兰时装周 2008秋冬男装－Versace

秋冬男裝以城市風格及寬鬆，合身對比剪裁相互搭配而呈現：休閒、都會及晚宴不同造型。主軸顏色以深色為主，如細膩的黑色、油墨色、灰綠色、棕色、巧克力色，並飾以亮眼冷色系為焦點，如亮灰色、亮灰綠色、還有以原皮色皮革為綴飾，呈現冷峻的北美風格，寬鬆外套，保暖的雪衣搭配可拆式海狸毛內襯。輕鬆休閒式西裝外套，並飾以三個口袋有別一般傳統設計帶來新視覺。絲絨材質之西装或長褲更顯英挺優雅，極適合任何華燈初上後的聚會。

黑灰色威爾斯格紋相間之喀什米爾羊毛外套，並飾以三個口袋、白色精梳棉軟領襯衫、巧克力色與灰色羊毛混織水手領上衣、油墨色super120精細羊毛長褲。黑色與棕色威爾斯格紋相間之喀什米爾羊毛直身翻领大衣、巧克力色威爾斯格紋羊毛雙釦西裝、灰線色喀什米爾羊毛混織高領套頭毛衣、灰墨色及油墨色羊毛絨直條紋長褲。以不同材質及色系做層次性的搭配，呈現秋冬變裝風潮，而不宜一成不變。亮色鱷魚皮革，水牛皮，小羊皮均在秋冬的短、中，長外套展現不同的面貌。

January 12, 2008

We sat and we waited while Beyoncé and Jay-Z wended their way through Milan to Donatella Versace's latest show. What better couple to test the claim that we were about to see a collection that offered "a male wardrobe to warm the heart of women"? And what fun it would have been to learn what Ms. Knowles made of clothes built on superhero detailing like shoulders of surpassing strength and capelike volumes flowing from jacket backs. But it wasn't Superman Donatella had in mind for the mannequins on her catwalk. She was actually thinking about the way that the cult Art Deco artist Tamara de Lempicka (beloved of Madonna and Jack Nicholson) painted the men in her life. Those pictures offered an image of brooding, haunted males in dramatically oversized coats, suits, and decadent little add-ons. And—presto!—Versace presented a modern take on the same. Her proportions were so extreme that resistance was futile. A duster in chocolate-toned shearling was a TKO. A monk's habit collided with a duffel coat to produce one of fall 2008's must-haves. A monochromatic evening look (black tux, black shirt, black bow tie) spectacularly drowned under a huge black officer's coat. Get the feeling the show was all about outerwear? Well, if the Russian Front ever had time to mount a fashion show, here were the key pieces: a shearling poncho and a black leather greatcoat. The color palette was mostly about de Lempicka's deep, velvety darkness—plum, mulberry, imperial purple. Perhaps that's why the jet-black bugle beading under a jacket lapel stood out. Subtle but extreme—it's a tricky balancing act.

— Tim Blanks

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