米兰时装周 2008秋冬男装－Salvatore Ferragamo

有兩種不同典型的男子---溫文儒雅男子與忙碌的男子，在我們時尚的舞台上相會了，這兩種不同的典型，在我們的周遭，與我們共同生活。通常，忙碌的男子，比較喜歡呈現堅強的領導者的風格，也比較喜歡有一些距離。溫文儒雅的男子，則比較像是一種感性的夢想家，希望生活呈現不同的風貌。這兩種典型的人是如此的截然不同，又如何從外表來識別與區分他們呢？

兩種重要的原則可以綜合、融合、並存在一起，並且以精緻的作工與剪裁，讓人回想起過去精湛的技藝。過去記憶中的元素，影響了本季作品的材質，更多耐用的氈製品；日式手工印染技術的水彩與抽象圖案；蠟紙印刷圖案，結合了燈芯絨、法蘭絨和棉布的材質。前所未見的各種不同的工藝技術，呈現美侖美奐的美感效果，剪裁合身。長褲合身的貼在腿上；合身的作舊款式；針織服也很合身。外套的剪裁非常立體，是成衣製作的高級做工，將身材與臀部修飾的非常有曲線，袖子修長且強調腰線。結構方面非常講究，好像是穿第二件襯衫一樣，非常強調身材的曲線。

January 13, 2008

It didn't take Dave Gahan belting out his solo hit "Kingdom" to establish the quintessential darkness of this collection. From the low-belted cardigan coat at the beginning to the bugle-beaded cutaway jacket at the end, designer Massimiliano Giornetti explored the shadowy side of the fashion spectrum. One might even suppose that a greatcoat lined in lynx was meant to underscore the endgame with which Giornetti was toying. Likewise, the overt extravagance of a crocodile trench.

But both those items struck discordant notes in a collection that was otherwise absorbed by industrial luxury—techno aristo, if you will. An evening look of a tailcoat teamed with black leather pants was one of its clearest embodiments. At the other extreme were baggy nylon pants paired with a hooded knit top. The use throughout of formal details such as tuxedo shirts and cummerbunds also helped to emphasize the hybrid nature of the collection. And check the endless lapel variations: as big as wings on one coat; doubled—shawl and peak—on a jacket; silvered on another. In fact, it was in silver that Giornetti found his light relief. When he used it in shirts and ties, it shimmered like moonlight in the surrounding night.

— Tim Blanks

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