米兰时装周 2008秋冬男装－Missoni

在義大利眾多的時裝品牌中，Missoni已被公認為針織品的掌門人，然而在數個世紀後的今日， Missoni總是可以利用出神入化的配色與針織品豐富的織紋特性，為服裝帶來相當多不一樣的表情，即使季復一季，依然顯得不褪流行，相較於女裝的下跌趨勢，2008／2009秋冬，Missoni揚棄了傳統的模式，在男裝的詮釋上有了爆炸性的復甦！ 襯衫、背心、V領針織背心、針織外套…一層又一層的堆疊，再混融著一系列駝色、淺褐色等屬於祕魯的神秘線條與圖騰，一股腦兒的全塞進了毛料長褲中，或許我們不能夠真正嶺惠設計師所要傳達的，但我們能確定的是…這樣的確會讓你下盤看起來十分的碩大。

當然，Missoni竭盡心力的研究編織的無限可能，裝飾永遠不嫌過度，色彩綻放出如同拜占庭帝國鑲嵌玻璃的萬丈光芒，波浪是大軍突襲的節奏，山字圖紋如同皇室器皿上的尊榮徽記。 雙排扣的夾克外再繫上腰帶、一件sixties-sharp的午夜藍晚禮服…看來Missoni這一季想要爲時髦懶人的衣櫥添加的衣物， 就像是電影原聲帶-"I Put a Spell on You"，似乎是有那麼一點的異想天開。

January 12, 2008

In the closing years of the last century, Angela Missoni had a stab at her family's menswear. Then she went off to revivify—with some success—the womenswear that bears the Missoni label. But she always carried a torch for The Guy—and now she has a chance to do it all again. What better place to start than with the men who mean most to her, her father Tai and her longtime partner Bruno Ragazzi? From her father, Angela plucked the casual bohemian luxe of Missoni's signature knitwear. Her visits with Bruno to his tailor inspired her attention to bespoke detailing. Put the two together and you should by rights have a feast of masculine options, "a full wardrobe," as Angela herself defined her intention backstage. And there was indeed an enormous selection in the clothes that were shown on Missoni's fall catwalk. The big problem was that they were all shown at once, layer upon layer, which were all then relentlessly tucked into tailored trousers. "Does my butt look big in this?" Yes, as a matter of fact.

And yet, pluck it all apart and there were the striking ice-creamy colors, the complex knits, the sensual softness that has made Missoni a distinctive addendum to the indolently stylish man's closet, lo, these many years. And, if the multi-versioned soundtrack of "I Put a Spell on You" seemed a little too much like wishful thinking for now, a double-breasted gab jacket with a strap (which could hold your newspaper—you do still read, right?) and a sixties-sharp midnight-blue tux were the kind of items that suggested Angela may eventually be able to work the same kind of voodoo here as she did with Missoni's womenswear.

— Tim Blanks

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