米兰时装周 2008秋冬男装－Emporio Armani

全新系列蘊匯意大利的精髓，色彩柔和得來煥發神采，烘托完美的體型曲線，營造攝人的視覺美感。這季彩調以淡雅霧面無光澤為主 ? 粉白、雪白、淺灰、麻灰、皚白以至青灰色，全是新經典主義的代表。雙排釦西裝採用流暢貼身的全新線條，剪裁恰到好處，肩膀線條舒適自然，此外亦有柔順剪裁的兩顆鈕款式，備有條紋、人字紋或陰陽色襯衫質料供選擇，襯裡選用亮滑絲綢，可當作襯衫單穿，更顯休閒帥氣。

西裝領襟邊內嵌藏軟鋼線，別具巧思，男士們可隨意改變領形塑造與眾不同的線條。這季西褲亦採用新剪裁：設計趨向馬褲，大腿位置較圓渾，小腿線條順貼。個別款式選用環形立體織布，樣式乍看經典，但卻可隨意縮短或捲起，瞬間改變成另外一種感覺，方便別緻。最新的外套可作襯衫穿着，襯衫則設計更簡約，長頸鹿印花時尚大方，半透明質料纖薄舒適，健美身型隱約可見。全新系列還備有超級輕盈的風衣，不喜歡西裝的日子，它就是最佳的選擇。這款設計肩膀剪裁畢挺，沿衫身至腳邊設有通風孔眼，另有法式暗扣領款式，選用Armani經典油灰色，可配搭相襯西褲拼湊另類造型，讓男士們脫下西裝，立即轉換風格。

January 13, 2008

However cloying the Catwalk Conversation (when models stroll along, usually arm in arm, oozing fake good cheer), it must be said that a smile is such a rare thing on the runway that every one is welcome. This season, the Emporio Armani Experience was positively exuberant as a small army of young men and women streamed by, engaged in professionally social intercourse. Arch or not, the staging complemented the clothes, which were intended to embrace the easy movement from work time to playtime that Armani sees as a feature of contemporary life. Even the group of EA7 skiwear with which he opened the show had a sophisticated new gloss, which set the tone for a collection that effortlessly combined sportswear and eveningwear.

A hoodie-and-tux-pants combo was the very least of it. In fact, the hood was probably the dominant motif, on jackets and coats in classic tweeds, glen plaids, or windowpane checks. But equally, the tux stripe showed up over and over. Between the two, they made for an elegant athleticism. The same quality infused layered knits, or blazers with scooped-out sides, like fencing jackets. But at this he-can-do-whatever-he-wants stage in Armani's career, it's the eccentric touches that one seeks and relishes, like the glittery tweed sock-boots, the massive shawl swathing a tailored look, or the dangling chains decorating the lapels and belt of an evening look. Armani's having fun—and he wants us to share it.

— Tim Blanks

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