米兰时装周 2008秋冬男装－Dolce & Gabbana

秀展舞台上大量的金色垂掛裝飾物與厚重天鵝絨幕簾垂墜、在滾石合唱團"She`s a Rainbow."的主題音樂配襯之下，「非常六零年代、非常倫敦氣味的波希米亞青年。」就是DG的最新秋冬造型。

首先，模特兒以一襲厚實溫暖的羊毛絨皮革大外套，帶出整季的時尚輪廓，就像是70年代超級巨星乘著私人小飛機降落於英國小島參加Isle of Wight Festival般氣派十足；Domenico Dolce和Stefano Gabbana混合20世紀的無線條寬大衣以及21世紀的運動型休閒長褲（這也是米蘭最近超in syle！），試圖營造出，既不過分尖銳前衛也不至於流氣俗麗的中庸風格。

無翻領的馬甲背心、窄小領型襯衫和窄版領帶都搭配著oversized羊毛大衣與粗厚套頭毛衣，兼具時髦態度與舒適感的單品，其平易近人的易搭特性，讓近幾季毀譽參半的兩位設計師彷彿重新拾回早期叫好又叫座的昔日好聲譽；而針織/燈芯絨/天鵝絨、以及騎馬褲/花呢格紋褲、和圍巾圓頂小帽的混搭質材運用，更被譽為充滿了陽剛的活力。同時，皮革質料在設計師掌控精湛的剪裁功力之下，染色小羊皮長褲和收腰上衣的豪奢氣質自然散發；當然晚宴禮服系列經過Domenico和Stefano中規中矩的實用理念詮釋之後，更呈現出高雅瀟灑的型男姿態。

January 12, 2008

The backdrop was gold-swagged velvet drapes, and the Stones were singing "She's a Rainbow." In other words, a snapshot from London's late-sixties haute bohemia. Then out strolled a gigantic sheepskin coat, tailor-made for a superstar helicopter drop at the Isle of Wight Festival circa 1970. Except for one not-so-minor detail: It was paired with cashmere-knit sweatpants. And thus did Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana introduce one of the most successfully idiosyncratic collisions of twentieth-century dress-up and twenty-first-century dress-down that Milan has seen in recent memory. Try a houndstooth hoodie on for size—and expect it to be generous. With the exception of a closing passage of pared-to-the-bone eveningwear (narrow-collared shirts, skinny ties, lapel-less waistcoats), the duo pumped up the volume with extravagantly oversized shearlings and jumbo sweaters, often teamed with ankle-ribbed pants. The result was an irresistible combination of glamour and comfort. If some of Dolce & Gabbana's recent menswear collections have occasionally felt like they were treading water, this one tapped into the enthusiasm of their early reputation-makers. The fabrics (jersey, corduroy, velvet) and the rustic touches (breeches, riding pants, tweed and houndstooth as favored fabrics) had a gutsy energy, amplified by styling flourishes like flat caps and ikat scarves. The passage of time has bequeathed Dolce & Gabbana a level of craftsmanship that produces leather blousons with circular patchwork, or trousers cut from a frontier-ready mouton. Sure, there's an almost parodic over-the-topness about such items, but in today's tremulous fashion climate, it's nice to know they exist.

— Tim Blanks

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