纽约时装周 2008秋冬男装－Adam Kimmel

Adam Kimmel

許多時候設計師喜歡從旅遊尋找靈感，異國情調的確能夠為平凡的想像多點佐料。紐約堪稱怪咖級的設計師Adam Kimmel儘管不缺鬼點子，但是男裝設計總得兼顧實穿與話題（不可否認的事實），也因此這次Adam Kimmel就趁一月前往義大利佛羅倫斯的Pitti Uomo模特兒選角的時候，汲取了義式男裝的精緻剪裁功力。並且，融合了設計師向來視為謬思，那些1950年代Wallace Berman創辦的藝術雜誌中，前衛又時髦的造型與視覺，深深的啟發了Adam Kimmel的時尚知覺。簡單的說，這是一個在東岸紐約展示的西岸風格作品，成熟雅痞的穿著態度中，帶點嘻哈與爵士的隨性不羇態度。皮衣夾克當然是義大利式的，但寶藍亮色敞領襯衫與西褲吊帶，則肯定是West Coast的風格。

仔細檢視觸摸這個系列的男裝，會發現這是低調奢華的隨性貴族，看似寬鬆輕便的Casual look，其實多數用料都是上乘的喀什米爾羊毛，其他則是略帶閃光質感的絲質、安哥拉羊毛混紡的面料。甚至你看到的幾件牛仔服飾，都是有法蘭絨細節的高級丹寧素材。歸功於他在義大利的製造工廠，Adam Kimmel的男裝享有了愈來愈高的聲譽。黑色又像斗篷又像大衣的披風相當俐落有型，灰綠色針織衫的解構式領圍剪裁頗有創意，深藍色牛仔褲搭配深咖啡色軍靴的陽剛造型堪稱經典，說到經典，蘇格蘭格紋也沒有在Adam Kimmel的秋冬男裝系列中缺席，不過他選用的是紅白藍色的經緯元素，看得出來紐約仍舊是他心目中的時尚根據地。

February 5, 2008

When Adam Kimmel was showcased at Pitti Uomo in Florence this January, he flew in a planeload of his art-world buddies from New York. They inspire him, just like he's currently inspired by the community that sprang up around Semina, an art-mail magazine created by Wallace Berman in California in the late fifties. The era has always sparked Kimmel's imagination, and the addition of the Semina-l influence worked wonders, animating his fall collection with the enduringly cool spirit of West Coast beats.

Kimmel took his silhouettes and fabrics from the clothes in the pages of Semina, but this was no mere retro resurrection. He wanted everything as soft as possible. There was cashmere everywhere—even in the corduroy. And when there wasn't cashmere, wools that looked rough were silky, as in a generous double-breasted herringbone coat that would have done Charlie Parker proud. Kimmel's signature jumpsuit reappeared in a cashmere/angora herringbone, a clear marker of how far the designer has come from the stolid working-man inspirations of his earliest collections. Even the pieces that harked back to those days were more than they seemed: a classic denim jacket was lined in cotton flannel; western shirts were double-lined for extra softness. Another Kimmel signature has always been repurposed industrial fabrics, but his new mastery of elegance (kudos to his Italian manufacturers) meant they were sleekly chic. Or at least the suit cut from army cotton was. A jumpsuit made from what looked like a mover's blanket was a bit more of a stretch. And a special mention for the leathers, another marker of this designer's fast and furious evolution.

— Tim Blanks

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